Dag 71, 6 September

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 11

Tete

Reis na Tambara

Begin van week 11. Dis nou afdraande.

Ons kry wonderlike vleis by Wynand. Hy kry dit by ander boere wat suid van die stad, in die berge boer. Dit lyk na uitstekende T-been, wors, maalvleis en filet. Toe is dit groet en in die pad val.

Ons reis deur Tete. Ons is op die noordelike oewer van die Zambezi. Ons kruis die rivier met die pragtige staal brug – die Samora Machel brug, vernoem na die land se eerste president na onafhanklikheid van Portugal. Die brug is eers genoem die Marcelo Caetano Bridge, vernoem na die Portugese eerste Minister van 1968 tot 1974. Dit was die tyd toe die Cahora Bassa projek onderneem is, en daar ‘n brug oor die Zambezi nodig was om voorrade in te bring.

Vandag is daar ‘n tweede brug oor die magtige rivier, verder stroomaf, in Tete.

Ons ry deur die stad. In ‘n stadium stop ons by die mark. Dis ‘n besige dorp. Mens sou nie juis kon se ‘n mooi dorp nie. Daar is ook maar die algemene verval wat mens in talle Afrika stede sien. Tussendeur, nuwe geboue.

Na brandstof aanvulling vertrek ons suid met die N7. Dis ‘n slegte teerpad vol slaggate.

Net buite Changara, by die brug oor die Luenha rivier, maak ons middagete. Later draai ons af op ‘n grondpad, rigting Tambara. Die grond paadjie hou ons besig. Dis mooi omgewing, alhoewel nog vaal. Lente het nog nie regtig gearriveer nie.

Toe dit donker word maak ons kamp in die veld. Nina maak ‘n Thai hoender kerrie met rys. Lekker vir ‘n Maandagaand.

oOo

Beginning of week 11. Now it is downhill.

We stock up with excellent meat that Wynand gives us. He orders it from farmers, further south in the country. It is excellent T-bones, Boerewors, mince, and fillet. We say goodbye and leave.

We travel through Tete. We were on the northern banks of the Zambezi. We cross the river with the beautiful suspension bridge, named after Samora Machel, the first president of an independent Mozambique. The bridge was previously known as the Marcelle Ceatano Bridge. He was prime minister of Portugal from 1968 – 74. This was when the Cahora Bassa project was done, and a bridge was needed to take supplies across the Zambezi.

Today there is even a second bridge, downstream, over the mighty river at Tete.

We continue our journey through the town. At one stage we stop at the market. It is not what one will describe as a beautiful town. There is the general decay we find in most African cities. In-between the rubble, brand new buildings are erected.

We fill up with fuel and take the N7 south. It is a terrible tar road with lots of potholes.

Just outside Changara, at the bridge over the Luenha river, we stop for lunch. Later, we turn left on a gravel road, direction Tambara. It is a road that keeps one busy. It is a beautiful region even though spring has not arrived yet.

When darkness fell we set up camp in the veld. Nina prepares a Thai chicken curry with rice. Excellent for a Monday evening.

Dag 72, 7 September

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 11

Tambara na Campo Dona Maria

Die nag in die veld was goed. Ons is vroeg op. Hoe verder oos ons beweeg, hoe vroeër jaag die son ons uit die bed uit.

Ons neem die pad tot by Tambara waar ons weer die Zambezi kry. Daar is ‘n aantal vroue wat kom wasgoed doen. Ons sien ook heelwat mense in uniform. Dis vandag ‘n openbare vakansiedag. Daar sal blykbaar ‘n parade op die dorp wees.

Ons ry Tambara uit.

Die roete loop deur landelike Mosambiek. Hierdie is een van die armste lande in die wêreld. Ons is in een van die armste streke in die land. Langs die pad sien ons vroue wat die kaf van die mielies skei deur dit in die lug te gooi. Dis ‘n primitiewe manier, maar dit werk.

Die landskap is pragtig. Weer eens, talle kremetartbome.

Teen die middaguur kom ons aan by Campo Dona Maria. Ons ontmoet Rademan Janse van Rensburg. Sestien jaar gelede het die eertydse groenteboer van Ladybrand hierheen gekom, aanvanklik met die doel om bio diesel te maak. Maar na verskeie proeflopies oor ‘n tydperk van drie jaar waartydens hy op die oewer van die Zambezi gekamp het, het hy besluit – organiese suiker.

Vandag is die plek ‘n indrukwekkende suikerplaas met sy eie meule. Hulle verskaf werk aan honderde, en is in ko-produksie met die plaaslike gemeenskap van wie hulle riet aankoop. Ons kan nie wag om die plek, wat met die eerste oogopslag indrukwekkend lyk, verder te verken nie.

Die aand nooi Rademan ons vir aandete. Afgesien van sy dogter Chanel en haar vriend Lloyd, is daar nog Kobus Visser en sy vrou Annerie, Bruce en Sofiare, Patricia, Anton en Jeremy. Dan kry ons ook ‘n tradisionele ete – voorgereg is tamatiesop, en hoofgereg frango Zambezia, ‘n romerige spinasie met kokosneut, grondboontjies en garnale. Hulle noem dit matsapa. Ook rys en slaai. Vir nagereg, piesangbrood.

Dis ‘n goeie ontmoeting met die personeel van Ecofarm Mozambique.

oOo

We enjoyed the night in the veldt. We got going early. The further east we travel, the earlier the sun chases us out of bed.

We travel to Tambara where we once more meet the Zambezi. A few women are doing the washing. We also see several people in uniform. Today is a public holiday. Apparently, there will be a parade in town.

We leave Tambara.

The route takes us through rural Mozambique. This is one of the poorest countries in the world. We travel through one of the poorest regions in the country. We see women separating the chaff from the corn by throwing it up in the wind. It is a primitive way, but it works.

The landscape is beautiful, dotted with many baobabs.

Just after lunch, we arrive at Campo Dona Maria. We meet Rademan Janse van Rensburg. Sixteen years ago, this vegetable farmer from Ladybrand came to this part of the world with the idea of developing the land to produce biodiesel. After various experiments over a period of three years, whilst camping on the banks of the Zambezi, he decided to rather cultivate organic sugar.

Today it is an impressive sugar farm with its own mill. Jobs got created for hundreds, and co-ops also provide cane from the locals. We cannot wait to explore the farm that, at first glance, looks to be a very impressive setup.

Rademan invites us for dinner. We are joined by his daughter Chanel and her friend Lloyd, Kobus Visser and his wife Anneri, Bruce and Sofiare, Patricia, Anton and Jeremy. We are served traditional food – entre of tomato soup, mains of frango Zambezia, creamy spinach with coconut milk, peanuts, and prawns. It is called matsapa. It is served with rice and salad as well. For dessert, we are served banana bread.

This is an excellent introduction to the staff of Ecofarm, Mozambique.

Dag 73, 8 September

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 11

Campo Dona Maria

Net na 7 kry ons vir Rademan. Hy neem ons na die rede vir die bestaan van die suikerplaas – die Zambezi.

By die rivier is daar ‘n kanaal na ‘n pompstasie. Dit hou die pompstasie veilig weg van die rivier, sou daar ‘n vloed kom. Hier pomp hulle tans 2 kubieke meter water per sekonde, en is in besit van ‘n lisensie om 8 kubieke meter te pomp. Die rivier vloei teen ongeveer 2 300 kubieke meter water per sekonde verby die plaas. Hulle maak dus nie veel van ‘n indruk op die volume nie.

Ons bekyk die gedeelte van die plaas aan die rivierkant van die nasionale pad. Talle spilpunte is opgerig. Nie een is dieselfde grootte nie, want daar moet voorsiening gemaak word vir die massiewe kremetarte. Nie een kremetart word uitgehaal in die ontwikkeling van die plaas nie.

Ons sien hoe afval materiaal gebring word na die plek waar die kompos gemaak word. Soos meeste van die trekker bestuurders is die vragmotor bestuurders ook hoofsaaklik dames. Rademan se hulle werk sagter met die masjinerie.

Tussendeur is talle wildernis gebiede. Dit laat die biodiversiteit toe. Daar is selfs luiperds op die plaas. Ook ander wild. ‘n Stook word as wildernisgebied gelaat met die oog op ‘n klein natuurreservaat.

Rademan neem ons oor die groot pad na waar die res van die huidige 42 spilpunte staan. Sommige behoort aan hulle boerdery. Die res is ko-ops met die plaaslike mense. Die deel van die plaas staan bekend as Campo Grande.

EcoFarm Mozambique help die mense deur hulle suikerriet aan te koop. Hulle kan dit bv. laat oes met die stroper, of dit met die hand kap. Dis harde werk, maar so verdien hulle meer.

Ons sien ook die kanaal en balanseer dam wat by Campo Grande gebou is. Dit voorsien aan die besproeiingsbehoefte van die deel van die plaas.

Die middag maak ons ‘n draai by die Brahmaan beeste van Dona Maria. Die bulle is in uitstekende kondisie.

Ons sien die son sak agter een van die kremetarte, en gaan kroeg toe by Kobus en Annerie. Anton word aan die werk gesteek voor die kole. Chanel, Lloyd en Rademan kom kuier ook saam. Dit raak ‘n laat nag affêre.

oOo

Just after 7, we meet Rademan. He takes us to the place that gives reason for the sugar farm’s existence – the Zambezi.

Adjacent to the river there is a canal and pump station. By moving the pump station away from the river lessens the risk of it being swept away during a flood. Here they pump 2 cubic meters of water per second from the river. They have a licence to pump up to 12. The river flows past at approximately 2 300 cubic meters per second. They, therefore, do not make an impression on the Zambezi.

We drive around the farm on the river’s side of the national road. Here they have many centre pivots. None are exact in size as provision has to be made for the mighty baobabs. Not one baobab is destroyed in the development of the farm.

We see how the waste material from the boiler is brought in to be mixed with other materials to produce natural compost. Like many of the tractor drivers, the lorry drivers are also predominantly female. Rademan says they are better than the men. They treat the machinery with more respect.

Between the pivots, there are wilderness areas. This allows for biodiversity. They even have leopards on the farm. So too, other game. A piece of land is also earmarked for the development of a small nature reserve.

Rademan takes us across the main road where the rest of the 42 centre pivots were erected. Some belong to his farm. Others are those of co-ops with the locals. This part of the farm is known as Campo Grande.

EcoFarm Mozambique assists the locals in buying their sugar cane. They can have it harvested by machine, or they can harvest it by hand. This is hard work, but the profit is much higher.

We see the canal and balancing dam that was built on Campo Grande. This provides for the irrigation on this part of the farm.

Late afternoon we visit the Brahman cattle of Dona maria. The bulls are in excellent condition.

The sun sets behind one of the massive baobabs. We then go to Kobus and Annerie. Anton is in charge of the braai. Chanel, Lloyds and Rademan also join in the festivities. It becomes a late-night affair.

Dag 74, 9 September

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 11

Dona Ana Brug

Vandag verken ons die omgewing om Campo Dona Maria. Ons ry sowat 10 km stroomaf na die dorpie Sena.

Sena is ‘n doodgewone Afrika dorp langs die Zambezi. Maar by Sena kruis die spoorlyn wat van Malawi na Beira loop, die groot rivier. Om dit te doen is die langste spoorlynbrug op die Afrika vasteland gebou. ‘n Volle 3.8 km vanaf Sena na Mutarara.

Die brug maak voorsiening vir treine en voetgangers. Die voetgangerbrug word ook gebruik deur fietse en motorfietse.

Chanel, Rademan se dogter, vergesel ons oor die 90 jaar oue staal brug. Vier van ons te voet. Francois en Streicher elk op ‘n trapfiets wat Chanel vir hulle gebring het. Dis ‘n besonderse ervaring.

Daar is ‘n tiental trappies op na die vlak waar die brug is. Dis interessant om te sien hoe die manne op die fietse en veral die motorfietse die trappies hanteer. Bo aangekom, en daar is ‘n paar polisiemanne wat na die veiligheid van die brug kyk. Hulle gaan ook sommer ons paspoorte na. Dan stap jy oor na die ander kant terwyl jy probeer om die motorfietse en fietse wat teen ‘n redelike spoed by jou verby kom, te vermy.

Die motorfietse en fietse word gebruik as taxi’s om mense te karwei, maar ook om goedere van die een dorp na die ander te neem. Ons sien selfs ‘n man met ‘n kis-vrieskas op sy fiets. Die brug het amper ‘n lewe en ritme van sy eie. Dis ook goed om te sien hoe mooi die staalkonstruksie in stand gehou word.

Aan die Mutarara kant is daar weer ‘n polisie kontrolepunt. Toe gaan stap ons deur die dorp, gesels met die plaaslike mense, drink ‘n 2M, koop grondboontjies by die kinders, beleef ‘n Afrika dorp.

Terug, besluit ons om dit op die motorfiets taxi’s te waag. Nie omdat ons bang is vir die afstand nie. Dis net nog ‘n ervaring. En jy moet maar styf vashou en hoop die motorfietse skuur veilig verby die aankomende verkeer. Hierdie is een van die hoogtepunte van die week.

Laat middag gaan ons saam met Peter Scholtz, ‘n man wat die spilpunte by EcoFarm Mozambique oprig en in stand hou. Hy is ‘n voëlkenner. Verder gaan wys hy vir ons een van die heel mooiste kremetarte waar ons die sonsondergang beleef. Die dag word afgesluit by Rademan se huis met ‘n geselligheid. Hy het pas goeie nuus gekry – MSC stuur vir hom 40 houers waarmee sy suiker hawe toe geneem kan word. COVID het vervoer reëlings gekompliseer. Maar nou kan hulle organiese suiker weer Europa toe. Die pakstoor kan leeg gemaak word.

oOo

Today we explore the area around Campo Dona Maria. We travel 10 km downstream to the town of Sena.

Sena is a typical African town on the Zambezi. But at Sena, the railway line from Malawi to Beira crosses the mighty river. This is with the longest railway bridge on the African continent. It is 3.8 km from Sena to Mutarara on the opposite bank.

The bridge makes provision for trains and pedestrians. The pedestrian bridge is also used by bikes and motorbikes.

Rademan's daughter, Chanel, accompanies us on the 90-year-old bridge of steel. Four of us go on foot. Francois and Streicher on bikes that Chanel brought with them. It is a special experience.

To get to the level of the bridge, a stairway is used. It is interesting to see how this is negotiated by the bikes and motorbikes. On the bridge level, there is a police checkpoint. They guard the bridge. They also check our passports. Then you walk to the other side, desperately trying to avoid oncoming traffic on bikes and motorbikes. They travel across the bridge at speed.

The bikes and motorbikes are used as taxis and to transport goods from one town to the other. We even see one man with a chest freezer on his bike. The bridge has a life and rhythm of its own. It is also excellent to see how well the upkeep of the bridge is done.

At Mutarara there is another police checkpoint. Then we take a stroll through town, have a chat with the locals, drink a 2M in a pub, buy peanuts from the kids and enjoy a typical African town.

To go back we decide to take the motorbike taxis. This is not because we are scared of the distance. It is to enjoy yet another experience. But you must hold on tightly as the bikes squeeze through past the oncoming traffic. This becomes one of the highlights of the week.

Late afternoon we meet Peter Scholtz. He is responsible for the erection and maintenance of the centre pivots at EcoFarm Mozambique. He is also an avid bird watcher. He takes us to enjoy the sunset at one of the most beautiful baobabs. The day is concluded with dinner at Rademan’s house. He has just received some good news – MSC has confirmed that they would send 40 containers to allow them to transport their organic sugar to Beira and beyond. COVID complicated transport arrangements. But now, they can empty the warehouse.

Dag 75, 10 September

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 11

Die aanleg

Teen sonop is ons in die suikerrietland. Ons is saam met Anton. Hy is in beheer van die produksie. Ons kyk hoe die stroper die suikerriet kap, in sleepwaens agter op trekkers laai, en hoe dit dan oorgelaai word in vragmotors om na die meule geneem te word.

Om te boer in Afrika het sy uitdagings. Terwyl ons kyk hoe hulle werk, kom een van die sleepwaens los van die trekker. Die hidroliese pype breek. Nou moet daar plan gemaak word. Hier moet jy alles self kan regmaak. Daar is ‘n nie ‘n werktuigkundige van John Deere wat gou gebel kan word en wat onderdele kan bring nie. Jy moet die kundigheid, en geduld, van Anton hê.

Ons gaan ook na die meule en sien hoe die riet afgelaai en verwerk word. Die suikerriet reste word gebruik om stoom op te wek, waardeur die meule se eie kragstasie aangedryf word. So wek hulle hul eie krag op. Verder gaan die riet deur die hele proses soos wat die sap uitgepers word en dan verwerk te word tot die suiwerste suiker kristalle.

Ons proe die finale produk. Dit proe bietjie anders as die verfynde wit suiker wat ons ken. Dis beslis baie lekkerder.

Rademan vertel hulle meule is een van die kleinstes. Verwerk maar net 12 000 ton op ‘n slag. Maar die feit dat dit organies verbou word maak dit anders. Dit plaas ‘n premie op die produk. Die feit dat dit in die middel van die bos gedoen word, maak dit besonders. Maar hy en sy span wys – Afrika kan die kosmandjie van die wêreld word. Wanneer genoegsame kundigheid aangewend word om die Afrika son, die magtige riviere en ryk grond te gebruik, kan voedsel in oorvloed produseer word.

Ons groet en ry stroomaf. Verby Sena. Tot by Caia. Vandaar na Catapu waar ons by Ant en Pat White se lodge gaan oornag. Die reis staan einde se kant toe.

oOo

At sunrise, we are in the sugar cane field. We are with Anton. He oversees production. We see how the cane is cut and harvested. It is loaded onto trailers, which then load it onto trucks that take it to the mill.

Farming in Africa has its challenges. As we watch proceedings, one of the trailers unhooks from the tractor. The hydraulic pipes snap. Now it needs to be fixed. Here one needs to be able to do everything yourself. There is no John Deere agent in town that can be phoned to come with spares and fix the problem. You need to have the skill, and the patience, to fix everything yourself.

We visit the mill to see how the cane is offloaded and processed. The offcuts are used to generate steam for the production of electricity for use in the plant. The cane goes through a whole process to squeeze out the juice and is then processed to become pure sugar crystals.

We taste the final product. It tastes better than the refined white sugar we know. It is excellent.

Rademan tells us that this is a small mill, compared to the big sugar mills in other parts of the world. But the fact that this sugar is organically produced, makes it different. The fact that it is produced in the middle of the African bush, makes it special. But Rademan and his team show us that Africa can become the breadbasket of the world. When sufficient knowledge and experience are applied to use the African sun, water of the mighty rivers and rich soil, food in access can be produced.

We continue our journey downstream, past Sena, all the way to Caia. From there we go to Catapu to the lodge of Ant and Pat White. The journey is nearing its end.

Dag 76, 11 September

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 11

Catapu

Ons het ‘n rustige dag by Catapu beleef.

Ek is Caia toe om met Derrich op RSG te gesels en vars pao te koop. Die res van die spannetjie het bietjie ingelê. Dis nie aldag dat Stefan nie die sonsopkoms skiet nie. Vandag was daar ook nie een om te skiet nie. Dit is ietwat bewolk.

Nina het al haar vars produkte uitgepak, skoon gemaak, dit wat begin afgaan weggegooi en die res weer mooi terug gepak. Streicher het sy foto’s geredigeer.

Teen drie uur het ons uitgery na ‘n pannetjie. Daar was heelwat voëls – saalbek ooievaars, visarende, reiers, hamerkoppe ... en ‘n paar bokkies wat kom suip het. Ons het vuur gemaak en Wynand van Tete se T-been styks op die kole gegooi. Die styks was elkeen so groot soos ‘n bord. Francois het dit perfek gebraai, en Nina het ‘n heerlike pepersous daarmee saam bedien. Daar was skaars plek vir ‘n bietjie slaai.

Ons is daarna na Pat se huis om te gaan rugby kyk. Hoe minder daar oor die Sharks gesê word in vanjaar se Curriebeker Finaal, hoe beter.

Terug by ons blyplek word dit toe ‘n laataand kuier van rondsit en nonsens praat. Dis ook soms nodig.

oOo

It was a quiet day in Catapu.

I went to Caia for my weekly interview with Derrich, and to buy fresh pao. The rest of the team was lying in for a change. It is not often that Stefan misses a sunrise. Today there was none to be seen – it is overcast.

Nina unpacks all her fresh produce, cleans it, gets rid of the ones that were going off and repacks the rest. Streicher spends the day editing his photos.

By three we drive out to a little pan. There are many birds to be seen – saddle bill storks, fish eagles, egrets, hamerkop ... as well as a few antelope that came for a drink. We build a fire and chuck a few T-bones that we got from Wynand at Tete, on the fire. Each is as big as a plate. Francois cooks it to perfection and Nina serves it with a pepper sauce. Hardly room for a serving of salad7.

We went to Pat’s house to watch rugby. The less is said about the performance of the Sharks in this year’s Curry Cup Final, the better.

We went back to our chalet. It became a late-night affair of sitting around and talking nonsense. This too is necessary sometimes.

Dag 77, 12 September

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 11

Catapu

Die laaste rusdag voor die einde van die ekspedisie.

Selfoon sein en toegang tot die internet is iets waaraan ons begin gewoond raak het. Dis vreemd om dit nie te hê nie. Hoe anders as 21 jaar gelede toe ons begin het. Toe was dit kommunikasie met ‘n geo-stasionêre satelliet, iewers oor die Indiese of Atlantiese Oseaan. Maar nou is ons gewoond aan WhatsApp, Facebook, Instagram, Internet... maar daar is tog plekke waar daar geen sein is nie. Soos by Catapu.

Eers ry ek die 30 km in Caia toe vir kommunikasie, toe Streicher en Nina, later die middag Stefan.

Die res van die dag gebeur nie veel nie, afgesien van ‘n rugby wedstryd Daar Doer Onder – een wat ons gou wil vergeet.

Die aand gaan eet ons in die M’phingwe Camp se restaurant – peri peri c, chicken kebabs, curry chicken en spaghetti Bolognaise. Dis smaakvol en baie billik geprys.

oOo

The last rest day before the end of the expedition.

Cell phone signal and access to the internet is something that we got used to. It is strange not to have it. How different it was 21 years ago when we started. We communicated via a geostationary satellite, somewhere off the Indian or Atlantic Ocean. But now we are used to WhatsApp, Facebook, Instagram, internet... yet, there are only a few places where there is no signal, like Catapu.

First, it was me who travelled the 30 km to Caia for communication. Later Streicher and Nina also took the drive. Late afternoon it was Stefan.

Nothing much happens the rest of the day, except for a rugby match Down Under. One we would like to forget in a hurry.

After dark, we have dinner in the restaurant of M’phingwe Camp’s restaurant – peri-peri chicken, chicken kebabs, curry chicken and spaghetti Bolognaise. It is tasty and very well priced.

Dag 78, 13 September

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 11

Catapu na Chupanga

Die oggend begin by die saagmeule van Catapu.

Ant White en sy vrou Pat, ex-Zimbabwiërs, bestuur die 30 000 ha konsessie. Hier kan hulle hout oes en dit verwerk.

Ant en Pat het heeltemal ‘n ander benadering tot die oes van hout. Anders as die honderde vragmotors, oorlaai met hout, wat ons in dié deel van Mosambiek sien, is hulle daarop ingestel om soveel as moontlik te bewaar. So bv. plant hulle vier bome vir elkeen wat hulle afkap. Hulle glo die oorlewing van die geplante bome is sowat 50%, wat beteken dat hulle twee bome laat groei vir elkeen wat afgekap word.

Maar eintlik kap Ant White nie bome af nie. Hy tel hout op in die veld van bome wat dood is. Die hout word dan verwerk in ongelooflike mooi tafelblaaie en ander hout instrumente. Hulle spit hulle ook toe op die draaiersmark. Dis duisende mense in die buiteland, veral in Groot Brittanje, wat op draaibanke allerlei voorwerpe maak. Die hout word in blokkies van verskeie grotes gesny. Dit word uitgevoer en in die buiteland verkoop.

Van die mooiste produkte is die tafelpote van natuurlike hout. Met ‘n glasblad op die pote word dit ‘n kunswerk.

Interessant by Catapu is die instrumente wat gebruik word. Die draaibank is gemaak van ‘n ou Toyota ratkas. Die beitels van yster wat herwin is van valysters waarmee diere gevang was. Dis inspirerend om te sien hoe Ant en Pat werk.

Net voor middagete vertrek ons. Ons reis oor Inhamitanga, terug na die Zambezi. By Chupanga kry ons die rivier. Dis waar die graf van Mary Moffat Livingstone is, in ‘n kerkhof naby ‘n Katolieke kerk.

Mary was die dogter van Robert Moffat wat sendingwerk in Bechuanaland gedoen het vanaf Kuruman. David Livingstone het haar daar ontmoet en hulle is getroud. Saam het hulle 6 kinders gehad.

Mary het tydens al Livingstone se ekspedisie tuis gebly. Toe sy hom wel vergesel op die reis wat sou aantoon dat die Zambezi bevaarbaar was van die mond tot by Victoriavalle (wat nie die waarheid is nie) het sy by Chupanga siek geword en drie maande later, op 27 April 1862, gesterf aan malaria. Sy was maar 41.

Dis ’n baie hartseer verhaal.

Ons kamp langs die kerk. Die aand plaas ons varkrib in die Cobb, en Nina bedien dit saam met ‘n aartappel gereg en roomspinasie met sampioene. Dis wonderlik om hier te wees, as die muskiete net nie so gepla het nie...

oOo

We start the morning at the sawmill of Catapu.

Ant White and his wife Pat, ex-Zimbabweans, manage the 30 000-ha concession. Here they harvest and process wood.

Ant and Pat have a very different approach to the harvesting of wood. Different to the loggers we see, transporting thousands of tons of wood by a lorry on the Mozambiquean roads, the White’s aim is to conserve. They plant, for example, four trees for each one they harvest. They believe there is a 50% chance of survival of the trees, which means that they grow two trees for each harvest.

But Ant does not chop down trees. He collects wood in the forest of trees that have died. The wood is processed to become the most beautiful tabletops and other wooden artefacts. They also focus on the turning industry. These are hobbyist, mostly in the UK, that work small blocks of wood into a variety of objects. The wood is cut into blocks and exported.

Some of the most beautiful products are the bases of tables, made of wood. With a glass top, it becomes a work of art.

It is interesting to see what instruments are used at Catapu. One turntable is made of an old Toyota gearbox. The chisels are made from the iron of gin traps. It is inspirational to see how Ant and Pat go about, doing their work.

We leave just before lunch and take the road via Inhamitanga back to the Zambezi. We meet the river at Chupanga. This is where we find the grave of Mary Moffat Livingstone in a cemetery adjacent to the Catholic church.

Mary was the daughter of Robert Moffat. He did missionary work in Bechuanaland from Kuruman. This is where David Livingstone met her. They got married and had six children.

During all Livingstone’s expeditions on the African continent, Mary stayed at home. When she did join him on the journey that was to prove the Zambezi was navigable from the ocean to Victoria Falls (which proved to be impossible) she fell ill at Chupanga and died three months later on 27 April 1862 of malaria. She was only 41.

It is a very sad story.

We camp next to the church. We put a pork belly in the Cobb, and Nina serves it with a potato bake and creamy spinach with mushrooms. It is wonderful to be here, except for the mosquitoes that are a menace….