Dag 29, 26 Julie

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 5

Sioma Ngonye

Dit was ‘n baie vroeë oggend. Ons het vir Philip Meyer ses uur op die brug oor die Zambezi gekry, en gery na die uitkykpunt op die Sioma Ngonye valle vanaf die noordelike oewer.

Die vroeg opstaan was elke oomblik die moeite werd. Die son wat opkom oor een van die heel mooiste watervalle in die Zambezi – die Sioma Ngonye valle. In die vloed seisoen word hierdie valle amper net ‘n stroomversnelling, maar in die droë seisoen, soos nou, is dit ‘n reeks valle, uitgestrek oor bykans ‘n kilometer. Hierdie valle is “ontdek” deur David Livingstone nog voor hy Victoria Valle “ontdek” het. Te min mense sien dit. Vandat die pad van Sesheke tot by Mongu geteer is, is dit veel meer toeganklik.

Na die valle-besoek neem Philip ons met ‘n boot stroomaf. Hy neem ons na ‘n plek waar hy beplan om ‘n kampplek en lodge te bou. Hy het die Lozi koning en koningin as vennote. Daar is geen twyfel dat dit sal werk nie. As ons net van die COVID 19 pandemie kan ontslae raak.

Philip wys ook vir ons die boerdery wat hy ‘n paar jaar gelede begin het. Dis verstommend wat hulle in ’n baie klein tydperk kon regkry. Hy plant aartappels, uie, suikermielies, tamaties... hy lewer aan Shoprite, dwars oor Zambië. Die uitdagings hier is die infrastruktuur en jou houding teenoor die plaaslike mense. As jy respek toon, en bereid is om te gee en te neem, kan jy baie suksesvol hier wees.

Die middag ry ons na Sioma. Ons word bederf – ‘n trop van meer as 50 olifante wat oor die grootpad loop om te kom water drink in die Zambezi. Ons kon vir hulle kyk vir ure.

Net voor sononder is ons terug by Whispering Sands. Eddie het vir ons ’n reuse vuur op die strand gemaak. Hoofman Lukama, plaaslike stamhoof, kom vereer ons met sy teenwoordigheid. Dis nie aldag dat mens die geleentheid kry om informeel met een van die stamhoofde te kuier nie. Hy is ‘n baie aangename man wat daarna uitsien om buitelanders te ontvang. Hy wil graag hê meer Suid Afrikaners, mense soos Eddie en Philip, wil hulle in Barotseland kom tuismaak, en ‘n bydrae kom lewer tot die landstreek. Dit is ‘n besonderse plek.

oOo

We had an early start. At six we meet Philip Meyer at the bridge, crossing the Zambezi. He takes us to a vantage point, overlooking the Sioma Ngonye Falls from the northern bank.

The trouble of getting up early paid off handsomely. We see the sun rising over one of the most beautiful waterfalls on the Zambezi – the Sioma Ngonye Falls. This is little more than a rapid in the flood season, but now it is a set of waterfalls stretching out over a kilometre in length. These falls were “discovered” by David Livingstone before he “discovered” Victoria Falls. Too few visitors visit the place. Today, with the road tarred all the way from Sesheke, it is much more accessible.

After the visit to the falls, Philip takes us downstream with a boat. He shows us a beautiful spot where he plans to build a lodge and campsite. The Lozi king and queen are his partners. There is no doubt that it will work if we can only get past the COVID 19 pandemic.

Philip also shows us his farm that was developed over the past few years. It is incredible to see what they managed to do in such a short space of time. They plant potatoes, onions, mealies, tomatoes... he delivers to Shoprite across Zambia. The challenges here are the lack of infrastructure and the attitude towards the locals. If you show some respect and become aware that you do not only want to take, but to give, you can be very successful in Barotseland.

In the afternoon we drive to Sioma. We are treated with a herd of more than 50 elephants, crossing the main road to go and drink in the Zambezi. We could sit and watch them for hours.

Just before sunset, we return to Whispering Sands. Eddie makes a bonfire on one of the beaches of the Zambezi. Chief Lukama, the local headman, honours us with his presence. It is not an everyday event that we get the opportunity to have such an informal meeting with a chief. He is a very nice guy who enjoys receiving foreigners. He says he wouldn’t mind more South Africans, such as Eddie and Philip, coming and contributing to his region. This, indeed, is a special place.

Dag 30, 27 Julie

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 5

Kabula 

Daar was ‘n pragtige sonsopkoms oor die Zambezi. Na ontbyt groet ons vir Eddie en Jeanette en vertrek vanaf Whispering Sands.

Ons het nie ver om te ry nie. Dit is skaars 60 km, stroomaf, na Kabula. Hierdie is een van die gevestigde visvang lodges op die groot rivier. Ons word weer hartlik ontvang deur Kennister by Piet du Toit se lodge. Ons maak onsself tuis by die lodge met sy uitstekende geriewe. Hier is alles. Jy moet net jou eie kos en drank bring.

Laat middag gaan Streicher en Norbert visvang. Hulle is nie suksesvol nie. Kry nie eers ‘n byt nie. Maar hulle spandeer ‘n wonderlike twee uur op die rivier. Op plekke is die oewerwoud so dig, dit lyk soos die Amasone. Hulle sien ook ‘n klompie seekoeie.

Terug by die kamp maak ek, Nina en Francois aandete. Francois braai hoender, Nina maak ‘n brood wat sy vul met kaas, groen rissie en gekaramelliseerde uie, toedraai in foelie en dan op die vuur sit. Ek is verantwoordelik vir botterskorsies wat ons net so op die kole gooi.

Dis ‘n heerlike ete. Veral die skorsies, van Philip se plaas, het ‘n heerlike rook geur.

Dit is maar koel toe ons gaan inkruip.

oOo

Yet another beautiful sunrise over the Zambezi. After breakfast, we say goodbye to Eddie and Jeanette and leave Whispering Sands.

We do not have too far to go. It is a mere 60 km downstream, to Kabula. This is one of the established fishing lodges on the mighty river. We receive a warm welcome from Kennister at Piet du Toit’s lodge and make ourselves at home. The lodge is fully equipped. You only need to bring your own food and drinks.

Late afternoon Streicher and Norbert go fishing. They are not successful at all. Did not even get a bite. But it remains a good two hours at the river. At one stage the forest on the banks reminds them of the Amazon. They also see a few hippos.

Back at camp, Francois, Nina, and I prepare dinner. Francois braais chicken and Nina stuffs a bread with cheese, green pepper, and caramelized onion wraps it in tinfoil and place it on the fire. I am responsible for butternut that I put directly on the coals.

It is an excellent meal. Especially the butternut, from Philip’s farm, has an excellent smoky taste to it.

It is rather chilly when we go to bed.

Dag 31, 28 Julie

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 5

Sioma Ngwezi Nasionale Park

Ontbyt by Kabula is ‘n frittata – eier met salami, aartappel, uie, knoffel, Peppadews, kaas olywe en bietjie oreganum, bedien op roosterbrood. Net reg om jou deur die dag te dra.

Net na 10 ontmoet ons vir George Coubrough. Hy is ‘n Skot wat uitstekend Afrikaans praat en nou reeds meer as 20 jaar in die deel van Zambië woon. Hy reël ‘n paar dingetjies vir ons. Eerste is ‘n besoek aan die Sioma Ngwezi Nasionale Park.

By die Park se hoofkantoor kry ons ‘n gids - Patrick Nalumango. Ons ry saam met hom met ‘n tweespoor die Park binne. Die Park word tans deur Peace Parks bestuur saam met die Zambiese Bewaring owerheid. Dis deel van ‘n Oorgrenspark met Angola, Namibië en Botswana. Maar dis juis oorloë in Angola en Namibië wat daartoe bygedra het dat daar bitter min wild in die Park is, en die wat wel daar is, is baie skrikkerig. Ons vermoed grootskaalse stropery vind steeds plaas.

Ons ry ‘n draai deur die noord ooste van die park. Ons sien ‘n steenbokkie en ‘n paar rooibokke. Die voëllewe is egter goed, veral naby die pannetjies. ‘n Breë kop arend, kwêvoëls, byevangers, vlieevangers, kiewiete...

Die aand maak ons kamp in die wildernis. Daar is geen geriewe in die Park nie.

Streicher braai T-been styks, Norbert maak krummelpap en Nina maak ‘n heerlike tamatie en uie smoor. Nog voor ons gaan inkruip hoor ons die hiënas lag...

oOo

Breakfast at Kabula is frittata – egg with salami, potato, onion, garlic, Peppadews, cheese olives and organum, served on toast. An excellent way to start the day.

Just after 10, we meet George Coubrough. He is a Scotsman with excellent knowledge of Afrikaans. He has been living in this part of Zambia for more than 20 years. He offers to help us with our arrangements in the region, and first is a visit to the Sioma Ngwezi National Park.

At the headquarters of the Park, we are met by Patrick Nalumango, our guide for the next two days. We enter the Park on a Jeep Track with Patrick. Sioma Ngwezi is currently administered by Peace Parks in conjunction with the Zambian Wildlife Authority. It is part of the Trans-Frontier Park linking Angola, Namibia, and Botswana with Zambia. But the wars, especially in Namibia and Angola, contributed to the fact that very little wildlife is left, and those are very skittish. We suspect that large scale poaching is still rife.

We go on a game drive in the northeastern corner of the park. We see a steenbok and a few impalas. The birdlife, on the other hand, is excellent. Marshall eagle, go-away-birds, bee-eaters, flycatchers, hornbills, plovers.

At nightfall, we set up camp in the wilderness. In this park, there are no facilities.

Streicher braais T-bone steaks, Norbert makes pap and Nina are responsible for an excellent shebo. Even before we go to bed, we hear the hyenas laughing.

Dag 32, 29 Julie

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 5

Likaka

‘n Pragtige sonsopkoms in ‘n park waar daar geen ander mense is nie. Ook maar min diere, en die wat daar is, is maar wild. Voëllewe is goed. Ons sien byevangers en kiewiete wat ons nie ken in Suid Afrika nie. Op die pannetjie is daar ‘n langtoon wat jag. Maar mens is beslis nie in Sioma Ngwezi vir die wilde diere nie.

Ons ry terug met die tweespoor paadjie Sioma toe. Onderweg, ‘n mooi troppie baster gemsbokke. Ook hulle hardloop dat die stof so staan.

By die park se hoofkantoor aangekom, en daar is ‘n probleem – die plek is toe. Ons moet betaal vir ons besoek, maar aan wie? Na vele oproepe en heen en weer ry, kry ons uiteindelik ‘n man. Die fooi is ook nie duidelik nie. Sioma Ngwezi is nie op die lys van ZAWA parke nie. Uiteindelik besluit ons op $ 5.00 per persoon en $ 5.00 per voertuig. Die $ 45.00 Omgeskakel in kwacha: 990 Zk. Toe is almal tevrede.

Vanaf Sioma ry ons suid na ‘n baie besonderse plek op die Zambezi – die David Moir Biblioteek. Moir is gebore in die destydse Rhodesië, het hom bekwaam as sakeman en het as bankier vir Standard Chartered dwars oor die wêreld gewerk. Hy is deur Koningin Elizabeth met ‘n MBE vereer. Maar dis nie sy belangrikste nalatenskap nie

David het ‘n pragtige huis op die oewer van die Zambezi, so 30 km stroomop van Sesheke. Die plek se naam is Likaka. Dis die Lozi woord vir tarentaal. Hier het hy ‘n biblioteek met waarskynlik die grootste aantal boeke oor Noord en Suid Rhodesië, Barotseland en Afrika tydens die ontdekkingsreisigers tydperk. Dis ‘n plek waar ek maande lank sal kan spandeer.

David is nou reeds in sy tagtigs en woon in Stellenbosch. Mens hoop dat, as hy die dag nie meer daar is nie, iemand anders die versameling sou kon waardeer.

Ons is terug Kabula toe. Nina het ‘n lasagne op die kole gemaak. Dis Streicher se gunsteling. Na vanaand, meeste van ons s’n.

oOo

We experience a beautiful sunrise in a park where there are no other people, but very few animals as well. Those that we do see, are extremely skittish. The birdlife is good. We see bee-eaters and plovers that we are not familiar with within South Africa. On a small pan, a jacana is hunting. But you are most definitely not in Sioma Ngwezi for the animals.

We take the Jeep trackback to Sioma. We see a herd of sable along the way, but they run away in a visible bowl of dust.

When we arrive back at the headquarters, there is a problem – die offices are closed. We must pay for our visit, but to whom? After several phone calls and driving up and down, we eventually get a man whom we can pay. The exact amount is unclear. Sioma Ngwezi is not on the ZAWA list. Eventually, we settle on $ 5.00 per person and $ 5.00 per vehicle. Total: $ 45.00. In kwacha – 990 ZK. That made everyone concerned happy.

From Sioma, we drive to a very special place along the Zambezi – the David Moir Library. Moir was born in Rhodesia and qualified himself as a businessman and banker. He worked for Standard Chartered across the world. Queen Elizabeth honoured him with an MBE. But that is not his biggest legacy.

David built a beautiful house, 30 km upstream from Sesheke. He called it Likaka, the Lozi word for Guinee fowl. Here he houses a library with probably the biggest collection of books on North and South Rhodesia, Barotseland, and Africa during the time of the explorers. This is a place where I could spend months.

David is now in his eighties and lives in Stellenbosch. One hopes that when he is not around anymore, the collection would go to someone who appreciates it.

Back at Kabula Nina prepares a lasagne on the coals. It is Streicher’s favourite. After tonight, the rest of the team’s as well.

Dag 33, 30 Julie

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 5

Sesheke 

Ons pak op by Kabula en neem die roete suid, stroomaf. Hier raak die rivier nou werklik breed. Dit is ‘n massa water.

George Coubrough, wat ons die afgelope paar dae bystaan met reëlings in die omgewing, neem ons na ‘n saagmeule en meubelfabriek wat behoort aan P&S Timbers van Pretoria. Die man wat die plek bestuur is Johan Wiese.

Johan wys ons hoe hout verwerk word. Eers word dit in planke gesny. Daarna word dit gedoop in ‘n chemikalie wat goggas doodmaak, en dan word dit vir ‘n paar weke in ‘n droëer geplaas. Die hout wat by die meule opdaag is nog nat. Nou word dit gedroog.

Op die perseel word daar ook meubels gemaak. Dis rooshout en kiaat. Pragstukke wat vir spotgoedkoop verkoop word. Ek wens ek het ‘n sleepwa gehad om ‘n stel stoele op te laai. Die planke word verkoop teen tussen R 12 000 en R 18 000 per kubieke meter.

Ons groete George en Johan, en vat die pad, rigting Livingstone. Vir die volgende vier ure ry ons op sekerlik die slegste pad in Afrika. Dit is verbrokkelde teer. Dis slaggat op slaggat. Daar is reeds ‘n spoor langs die pad, maar die is nie veel beter nie.

Dis na 5 toe ons aankom by Nkwazi, die pragtige kamp en lodge net buite Livingstone. Gawie en Salome Botha ontvang ons. Ons was ‘n maand gelede ook hier. Dis amper soos om weer by die huis te wees.

oOo

We pack up and leave Kabula, driving south. Now the river really gets big and wide. It is a serious water mass.

George Coubrough who assisted us with arrangements the past week takes us to a sawmill that belongs to P&S Timbers from Pretoria. The manager is Johan Wiese.

Johan shows us how the wood is treated. First, the stumps are cut into planks. Then it is treated with chemicals to kill any insects and then placed in a drier for a few weeks. When the wood arrives at the mill, it is still wet and needs to be dried.

On the premises, the furniture is also manufactured. The wood is rosewood and teak. The furniture is beautiful and dirt cheap. I wish I had a trailer to load and take some home. The wood itself is sold at between R 12 000 and R 18 000 per cube

We say goodbye to George and Johan and take the road, direction Livingstone. For the next four hours, we drive probably the worst road in Africa. The surface is crumbling tar. It is pothole after pothole. There is a track, next to the road, but this is not much better.

It is past 5 when we arrive at Nkwazi, the beautiful campsite and lodge just outside Livingstone. Gawie and Salome Botha welcome us. We were here, a month ago. Now it feels like coming home.

Dag 34, 31 Julie

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 5

Nkwazi 

‘n Rusdag. ‘n Afdag. Ek en Francois gaan saam met Gawie dorp toe. Francois moet ‘n COVID toets doen, want hy moet vir ‘n week terug huistoe, net om te gaan kyk of alles nog vlot verloop by die winkel. Ons doen ook inkopies by Shoprite en kry nog data by MTN.

Die middag kyk ons hoe die Bokke die Leeus ore aansit. Dis nie sleg nie.

oOo

A day to rest. Francois and I go with Gawie to town. Francois needs a COVID test as he is flying home for a week to go and check if everything is still fine at the Fitment Centre. We also do shopping at Shoprite and buy more data at MTN.

In the afternoon we watch rugby and enjoy seeing the Boks winning the Lions.

Dag 35, 1 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 5

Nkwazi 

Sondag. Admin dag. Antwoord e-posse, kry dagboek op datum.

12:00 klim Francois op die vliegtuig. Hy gaan huistoe vir ‘n week.

Middagslapie, daarna ete by Gawier en Salome. Heerlik skaapboud in die oond, bedien met ‘n glasie Guardian Peak.

oOo

Sunday. Admin day. Emails and updating the dairy.

At 12:00 Francois boards a plane and flies back home for a week.

Afternoon nap, and then early dinner with Gawie and Salome. Leg of lamb in the oven, paired with a glass Guardian Peak.