Dag 36, 2 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 6

Victoriavalle

Ons het aangekom by sekerlik een van die hoogtepunte van vanjaar se reis – die grootste waterval in die wêreld.

Na ontbyt vertrek ons by Nkwazi. Dit is so 45 min se ry na Livingstone. Die rede – mens ry maar stadig, want jy ry grotendeels deur die Mosi-oa-Tunya Nasionale Park. Dis die park rondom die valle. Dit beteken “the smoke that thunders”, die Lozi beskrywing van Vic Valle. Op die pad kry ons juis ‘n troppie van sowat 10 olifante. Dit vertraag ons reis. Nie dat ons omgee nie.

By die valle aangekom en ons kry ‘n verassing – dis ‘n openbare vakansiedag, daarom kry ons 50% afslag op die toegangsprys. Ons is sonder Francois, wat huis toe is vir ‘n paar dae, en vir die vyf van ons wat oorbly betaal ons 1 000 kwacha.

Ons stap die terrein binne en beleef sekerlik een die van heel mooiste natuurlike skouspelle wat daar op aarde bestaan – Victoriavalle. Mosi-oa-Tunya.

Daar was vir lank bespiegeling oor wie eerste die valle gesien het. Natuurlik het die Lozi mense lank voor enige een die valle gesien, maar die eerste Westerling was vir baie jare ge-ag Dr. David Livingstone, die Skotse sendeling dokter te gewees het. Hy het die valle in November 1855 beskryf vanaf ‘n punt wat vandag bekend staan as Livingstone Island. Dit is egter duidelik dat die Franse kartograaf Nicolas de Fer, reeds in 1715 die valle korrek beskryf het. So ook Jacques-Nicolas Bellin in 1750. Portugese ontdekkingsreisigers en ook die Voortrekkers was bewus van die valle, lank voor Livingstone dit “ontdek” het. Maar David Livingstone het die valle die naam gegee wat dit vandag dra – Victoria.

Die valle is 1.7 km wyd en net meer as 100 meter hoog. Daar is die vraag of dit die beste is om te sien vanaf die Zimbabwe of Zambië kant. Beide is skouspelagtig mooi. Dis miljoene kiloliter water wat oor die valle stort om af te vloei in die Batoka skeur - dis hipnotiserend. Jy kan vir ure daarna staan en kyk. En ons het.

In ‘n stadium is ons deur die reënwoud. Almal was sopnat. Dit was nogal ‘n uitdaging vir die kameramanne om hulle toerusting droog te hou.

Teen vier uur die middag is ons daar weg. Ons het by die Royal Livingstone Hotel, ‘n plek waar die “ander mense” bly, ‘n Mosi gaan drink. Dis die bier, vernoem na die valle. Dit was ‘n viering.

Terug by die kamp het ons hamburgers gemaak. Ek was verantwoordelik vir die patties. Nina het gesorg vir die res. Dit was regtig lekker.

Toe ons gaan inkruip was dit weer eens maar koel.

oOo

We arrived at most certainly one of the highlights of this year’s expedition – the biggest waterfall in the world.

We leave Nkwazi after breakfast. It takes approximately 45 min to get to Livingstone. The reason – it is a slow drive through the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. This is the park in which the falls are located. It means “the smoke that thunders”, which is the Lozi description for Vic Falls. On our way to the falls, we are delayed by a herd of 10 elephants. Not that we mind.

Arriving at the park and we get a surprise – it is a public holiday. Famers Day. We get 50% discount on the entrance fee. We are without Francois who went back home for a few days. The five of us pay 1 000-kwacha entrance fee.

We enter the site and experience probably one of the most beautiful natural sights on earth – Victoria Falls. Mosi-oa-Tunya.

For many years a debate raged as to who saw the falls first. No doubt the local Lozi people saw it before anyone else but it was believed for many years that the Scottish missionary doctor, David Livingstone was the first Westerner to set eyes on the falls. He described the falls in November 1855 from a vantage point that is today known as Livingstone Island. What became known later is that French cartographer, Nicolas de Fer, correctly described the falls in 1715. So too did Jacques-Nicolas Bellin in 1750. Portuguese explorers, as well as the Voortrekkers, were aware of the falls, long before Livingstone “discovered” it. But it was the good doctor that named the falls Victoria.

The falls are 1.7 km wide and a little higher than 100 meters. There has always been the question – is it better to see the falls from the Zambian or Zimbabwean side. Both are spectacular. Millions of kilolitre water pour down the falls and flow down the Batoka gorge. It is hypnotising to watch. You can do so for hours, and we did.

At one point we walk through a rain forest, and everyone gets soaking wet. It is a challenge for the guys with the cameras to keep them dry.

We eventually left the falls at four. We stopped at the luxurious Royal Livingstone Hotel for a Mosi, the beer, named after the falls. It was some celebration.

Back at camp, we prepared hamburgers for supper. I am responsible for the patties. Nina does the rest. It really tastes good.

By the time we go to bed, it is rather chilly.

Dag 37, 3 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 6

Mosi-oa-Tunya Nasionale Park 

Vandag is die dag van voetslaan. “Take a walk on the wild side”. Dis ‘n instansie in Livingstone wat mens op voet safaris neem. Dit kos ‘n bietjie - $ 110 per persoon. Ons het gehoop dit sou die moeite werd wees.

Ons het die spannetjie ontmoet by die piekniek plek in die park. Die gids was Mukwesa Kangwa. Saam met hom, die drywer Newton, en ook ‘n man met ‘n geweer. Dis nou vir ons beskerming. In die park is daar nie groot katte nie, maar drie van die Groot Vyf, olifant, buffel en renoster kom wel hier voor.

Ons is verversings aangebied. Poeierkoffie met Cremora. My gunsteling!. Maar die piesang muffin was heerlik.

Ons het gaan stap. Kangwa is ‘n uitstekende gids. Hy het ons die normale van ‘n voet safari vertel – die spore, die verskillende plante, ‘n voël of twee in die lug... hy vertel bietjie meer as die gewone gidse. Daarmee saam met hy ‘n uitstekende sin vir humor “You get the Big Five, the Small Five, the Ugly Five, Maroon 5 and then there are five of you as well...”

Na sowat twee uur se stap kom ons, na ‘n bietjie spoorsny, af op dit waarna ons op soek was. Zambië se wit renosters. Dit is egter beter om te praat van wyd lip renoster. Daar is nog al die jare ‘n debat oor waar die term wit en swart renoster vandaan kom.

Ons het ‘n groepie van ses gekry. Daar is nog twee in die park. Dit is Zambië se totale wit renoster bevolking. Ons het dus, op een plek, meer as 80% van Zambië se renosters gesien. As dit nie vir mens aandui dat die spesie onder geweldige druk verkeer nie, dan sal niks nie.

Na die renosters ry ons ‘n draai deur die 66 vierkante meter park, die tweede kleinste in Zambië. Die Wildbesigtiging is maar gewoon – rooibokke, sebras, vlakvarke, olifante. Die park se instandhouding kort bietjie aandag. Dis maar soos baie parke in Afrika. Minstens is dit skoon. Geen rommel in die park.

Ons is terug Nkwazi toe. Saam met Gawie en Salomé, en ook Patrick en Oscar is ons op hulle boot om te gaan wild kyk op die oewers van die Zambezi. Die oorkantste oewer is ‘n nasionale park in Zimbabwe. Veel wild was nie om te sien nie. Wel ‘n klompie voëls soos ‘n reuse visvanger, kormorante, reier, kiewiete, kolganse... Hier en daar ook ‘n krokodil.

Die grootste opwinding was op pad terug toe die seekoeie ons nie toelaat om te kom vasmeer by die lodge nie. Hulle het in ‘n hinderlaag gelê. Patrick moes al sy vernuf as skipper gebruik om ons veilig tuis te bring.

oOo

Today is the day for a walking safari. “Take a walk on the wild side”. This is the name of a company that operates from Livingstone. It is not cheap - $ 110 per person. We just hoped it would be worth it.

We meet the team at a picnic spot in the Park. The name of the guide is Mukwesa Kanga. He is accompanied by the driver, Newton, as well as a ranger with a gun. This is for protection. There are none of the big cats in the park but three of the Big Five, elephant, buffalo and rhino are to be found in the park.

We start with refreshments. Instant coffee with Cremora. My favourite! The banana muffin, on the other hand, was excellent.

We went on a hike. Kangwa is an excellent guide. He does the normal stuff that you expect on a hiking safari – the spoor, different plant species, bird identification... but he tells us a little more than normal guides. He also has a wicked sense of humour. “You get the Big Five, the Small Five, the Ugly Five, Maroon 5 and then there are five of you as well...”

After two hours of hiking and a bit of tracking, we find what we were looking for – the white rhinos of Zambia. Some refer to them as the wide lipped rhino. This is the debate about the origin of the difference between the white and black rhino.

We see a crash of six. Apparently, there are two more in the park. This takes care of the entire white rhino population of Zambia. We, therefore, at one spot, saw more than 80% of Zambia’s rhino population. This is an obvious sign that this species is under severe strain.

After the rhino walk, we drive through the 66 square kilometre park, the second smallest in Zambia. Game viewing is nothing special – impala, zebra, warthog, elephant. Upkeep needs some attention. It is like many African Parks. Al least it is clean with no rubble lying around.

We go back to Nkwazi. We join Gawie and Salomé on a sunset cruise. Patrick is the skipper, and Oscar is the waiter. We were looking for wildlife on the Zimbabwe side of the river. There are not much to be seen. Birdwatching was good though – giant kingfisher, cormorants, egrets, lapwings, Egyptian geese... we even see a few crocodiles.

The biggest excitement was when, on our way back to the lodge, the hippos were waiting for us in ambush. It took all Patrick’s skills to get us safely back at the mooring of Nkwazi.

Dag 38, 4 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 6

Batoka Sky

Vandag is die dag van chopper vlieg. Streicher se vorige ondervinding was nie goed nie. Dis 9 jaar gelede. Dit kon tragies ge-eindig het. Maar dit het nie. Nou is hy, vir die eerste keer sedertdien, weer bereid om in ‘n Robinson R 44 te klim.

Ek, Nina en Streicher klim saam met Grant Welch, ons vlieënier by Batoka Sky in vir die eerste vlug oor die Valle. Norbert, Stefan en ons gasheer in Livingstone, Gawie, sou op die tweede vlug gaan.

Ons vlieg drie, vier keer oor die valle. Mens kan duidelik sien dat dit Vic Falls no 8 is. No 9 het stadig aan begin vorm. Oor ‘n paar miljoen jaar van nou, dan skuif die valle nog een terug.

Dan kom die adrenalien inspuiting van die week – ons is af in die Batoka Gorge met die helikopter. Mens vlieg net bo die watervlak. Dis soos white water river rafting, maar in ‘n chopper. Dis net die mees ervare van vlieëniers wat dit kan doen, veral om die skerp draaie waar mens in die vallei oorgaan van Vic Valle no 6 na no 5, na no 4...

Skielik klim die chopper weer uit die vallei. Ons vlieg terug na Batoka Sky se kantore. Onderweg, eers ‘n paar buffels, ‘n trop olifante en kameelperde uit die lug. Ook die magtige Zambezi.

As jy Livingstone toe kom en net een ding doen, kom doen Daan Geldenhuys se Batoka Sky se 22 minute vlug oor die Valle en in die Batoka Gorge. Dis nie iets wat jy sommer gou sal vergeet nie.

Ons is terug dorp toe. Inkopies by Shoprite en brandstof by Meru. Ook ‘n pap wiel laat regmaak.

Laat middag gaan ons na ‘n visplaas waar tonne Zambezi bream geteel word. Eiers word ge-oes en dan word die vissies geteel. Interessant is die voëls wat mens in die omgewing sien. Maraboe ooievaars, reiers, visvangers, visarende... hulle kom oes ook uit die damme.

Terug by die kamp en die aandete is gewoon – spaghetti Bolognaise. Nie sleg vir ‘n Woensdagaand nie.

oOo

Today is the day for chopper flying. Streicher’s previous experience was not good. But that was 9 years ago. It could have ended tragically, but it did not. Now, for the first time since he is prepared to buckle up in a Robinson R 44.

Nina, Streicher and I are on the first flight with pilot Grant Welch of Batoka Sky over the Falls. Norbert, Stefan, and our host in Livingstone, Gawie, would be on the second flight.

We circle the Falls several times. One can clearly see that there are 8 previous falls and that no 9 is just starting. A few million years from now, and the falls will move back one more step.

Then we get the adrenaline injection for the week. We fly down the Batoka Gorge with the chopper. You fly just above the water level. It is like white water river rafting in a chopper. Only the most experienced of pilots can do this, especially around the sharp corners as we go down the gorge from Vic Falls no 6 to no 5 to no 4...

Suddenly the chopper ascends from the gorge. We fly back to the helipad at Batoka Sky. On the way, we spot a herd of elephants and buffalo, as well as a few giraffes. We also see the mighty Zambezi, upstream from the falls.

If you visit Livingstone and only participate in one of the activities, let it be the 22-minute flight with Daan Geldenhuys’ Batoka Sky over the Falls and down the gorge. This is not something you will forget in a hurry.

Back in town we do shopping at Shoprite and fill up at Meru. We also have one tyre fixed.

Late afternoon we go to a fish farm where tons of Zambezi bream are cultivated. The eggs are harvested and then the fish is bred in massive dams. Most interesting are the birds that you can see around the dams. They come and feast on the fish as well. Marabou storks, egrets, kingfishers, fish eagles...

The dinner back at camp is ordinary – spaghetti Bolognaise. Not bad for a Wednesday evening.

Dag 39, 5 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 6

Leeuloop.

Ons is nege uur by die kamp weg, terug Livingstone toe saam met Salomé en Gawie. Ons doelwit was die Mukuni Big 5. Dis net buite die dorp.

Mukuni is die naam van die plaaslike stamhoof. Dis ook die naam van die plek waar mens baie naby aan wilde diere gebring word. Ons keuse val die dag op leeus, Nina se gunsteling.

Ons ontmoet ons gids, Lunda. Hy verduidelik dat die leeus in aanhouding geteel word, maar stelselmatig terug geneem word na die natuur. Die leeus wat ons sou sien, is ook nog jongetjies. Hulle is almal jonger as 2 jaar.

Vir sowat 45 minute speel ons met die leeutjies. Jy moet weet wat om te doen, want die welpies ken nie die perke van hulle krag, en besef nie die gevolge van hulle vlymskerp naels nie. Lunda en sy medegidse vertel duidelik dat ons die leeus van agter moet benader as hulle lê. Sou die leeutjie opstaan, moet jy ook opstaan. Verder kan jy nie aan sy stert of kop vat terwyl hy lê nie. Dit kan egter wel gebeur terwyl hy of sy loop. Dit alles is om te verhoed dat die leeutjie bedreigd voel. Die ses leeutjies wat ons sien is almal wyfies.

Ek was aanvanklik skepties oor die aktiwiteit. Het gedink dit is te geforseerd. Maar wanneer jy dit doen, kry jy tog opnuut respek vir die natuur. Dit was inderdaad ‘n wonderlike ondervinding, en nie net ‘n goeie fotosessie met interessante modelle nie. Ons het iets geleer van die gedrag van diere, en ook van die bedreiging van die groot katte.

Na die leeus gaan ons terug dorp toe. Eers is ons saam met Gawie na ‘n mark waar hy planke koop. Op dieselfde mark word daar ook kos verkoop, is daar ‘n barbier, ‘n kêrel wat pedikuur doen, ‘n naaldwerker... werklik iets van alles. Tipies Afrika.

Daarna is ons na die vars groentemark. Nina het ‘n lysie gehad. Tamatie, komkommer, kool, uie, groen rissies... alles wat die hart begeer, en vars. Toe is dit tyd om te gaan eet.

The Golden Leaf is al legendaries vir die uitstekende Indiese geregte wat hulle bedien. COVID 19 regulasies verhoed dat die restaurant oop is, maar hulle maak vir ons voorsiening in ‘n kamertjie agter. Chicken korma, mutton vindaloo, rogan josh, butter chicken, chicken masala, naan en gegeurde rys. Dis nou nadat ons vir voorgereg spicy chicken wings, heavenly drums en samoosas gehad het. Ons het onsself tot ‘n stilstand geëet.

Dit was ‘n moeilike en lang pad, terug na Camp Nkwazi.

oOo

We left Camp Nkwazi just after nine and went back to Livingstone with Salomé and Gawie. Our aim was Mukuni Big 5, just outside town.

Mukuni is the name of the local chief. It is also the name of the place where one is entertained by getting very close to wild animals. Today we choose Nina’s favourite – lions.

We meet our guide Lunda. He explains that the lions are bred in captivity, but that they are reintroduced into the wild. The lions that we were being introduced to are the young ones, around age two.

We get the opportunity to interact with the cubs for about 45 minutes. You need to act in a very specific way, as the cubs do not know their strength, and probably don’t realise that their nails are razor sharp. Lunda and his fellow guides explain that you always approach the cub from behind when it is lying down. When the lion gets up, so should you. Then one should never touch its head or tail when it is lying down. This, on the other hand, can be done when the lion is walking. All these actions are to prevent the lion from being threatened. The six cubs we meet are all female.

At first, I was a little sceptical about this exercise. I thought of it as being forced. But by doing this, one once more gets respect for nature. It was indeed an excellent activity and not only a photo session with very interesting models. We learnt something about the behaviour and threats to the big cats.

After the visit to the lions, we go back to town. Gawie needs to buy wooden planks for maintenance at the lodge. At the same market where he goes shopping, you can buy almost anything. You can buy food, there is a barber, someone who does pedicures, a lady doing sowing... something for everyone. Typical African.

Then it is off to the fresh produce market. Nina has a list. Tomatoes, cucumber, cabbage, onions, green peppers... everything you need, and fresh. We then go for lunch.

The Golden Leaf has become legendary for the excellent Indian dishes it serves. COVID 19 regulations prevent the restaurant from being open, but they make provision for us in a small back room. Other guests may only be served take-aways. Chicken korma, mutton vindaloo, rogan josh, butter chicken, chicken masala, naan and spicy rice. This is after an entree of spicy chicken wings, heavenly drums, and samosas. We ate ourselves to a standstill.

It was a long, difficult road back to Camp Nkwazi.

Dag 40, 6 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 6

5, 4, 3, 2, 1, Bungeeeeee

Die dag begin op ‘n ongemaklike manier. Ons moet toelaat dat iemand in ons neuse krap. Ons beplan om teen Sondag Zimbabwe toe te gaan, maar daarvoor is ‘n negatiewe COVID toets nodig. Dit gebeur onder ‘n boom buite ‘n kliniek in Livingstone. Dis maar blêrrie ongemaklik.

Ons is brug toe. Die staal brug oor die Batoka Skeur, stroom af van Vic Valle. By Shearwater het vier van die spannetjie gaan inteken. Drie vir die bungee, een vir die swaai.

Nina is baie bang. Haar ma het dit 21 jaar gelede gedoen. Dit was die aanmoediging. Alma het vir haar oor die foon gesê: die is nie soos ‘n tatoe wat ‘n langtermyn besluit is nie. Hier is ‘n impulsiewe ding. Toe spring Nina. Soos 21 jaar gelede vlieg sy soos ‘n swaeltjie deur die lug.

Daarna is dit Norbert. Hy het amper soos ‘n klip na onder geval. Gelukkig het die tou hom gebriek. Vir die Riemvasmaker is dit ‘n uitsonderlike ondervinding by die mooiste bungee in die wêreld.

Streicher is derde. Hy kan nie wag nie. ‘n Paar van sy vriende het dit ook al gedoen. Nou kon hy die een ook aftiek. Dit is ‘n adrenalien stormloop waarvan die kinders baie hou.

Stefan het op ‘n alternatief besluit – die swaai. Maar die eerste paar sekondes is dit ook maar soos die bungee. Jy vryval. Maar daarna raak dit lekker. Jy swaai heen en weer.

En ek? Ek neem die foto’s. Vanaf ‘n afstand.

Na die bungee, en vier spanlede in ekstase, is ons na Faan en Anmarie Fourie by die Taita Falcon Lodge. Faan het in 1994 berug geword toe hy en Eugene Terre’Blanche met ‘n gepantserde voertuig by die World Trade Centre ingery het. Daarna het hy uitgewyk na Zambië. Hier is dit ‘n veel rustiger bestaan. Hy het ‘n lodge gebou op die kranse, 150 meter bo ‘n stroomversnelling in die Zambezi rivier.

Na ‘n lekker kuier by Faan en Anmarie is ons terug Camp Nkwazi toe. Die aand braai ons saam met Gawie en Salomé, en ook vriende Jacques en Elizma. Streicher sit drie hoenders in die Cobb, Nina maak haar ma se beroemde broccoli slaai, en Norbert bak ‘n brood. Dis ‘n heerlike kuier saam met Suid Afrikaners wat hulle in Zambië kom vestig het.

oOo

We unpleasantly start the day – we have someone picking our noses. We plan to proceed to Zimbabwe on Sunday, but for that, we need a negative COVID test. This is done under a tree in Livingstone. It is very uncomfortable.

Then off to the bridge. The steel construction, built-in 1905 across the Batoka Gorge, is downstream from Vic Falls. At Shearwater the team sign in. Three for bungee and one for the swing.

Nina is very scared. Her mom did this jump, 21 years ago. This was her encouragement. Alma spoke to her on the phone and explained: this is not like a tattoo which is a long-term decision. This is something you do on impulse. So, Nina jumped. Like Alma did 21 years ago she flew like a swallow through the air.

Then came Norbert’s turn. He fell like a stone. Luckily there was a rope tied to his feet. For the man from Riemvasmaak, it is an exceptional experience at the most beautiful bungee in the world.

Streicher jumps third. Hy couldn’t wait. Some of his friends did it before. Now, this is one he can tick off as well. It is an adrenalin rush the kids like.

Stefan decides on the alternative – the swing. The first few seconds is a freefall, just like the bungee. Then you start the swing. He says he enjoyed going back and forth over the gorge.

And me? I take the photos. From a distance.

After the bungee, with four team members in ecstasy, we visit Faan and Anmarie Fourie at their Taita Falcon Lodge. In 1994 Faan became infamous when he and Eugene Terre’Blanche drove through the front door of the World Trade Centre at Codesa. He then fled to Zambia. Here is a much more peaceful existence. He built a lodge on top of the cliff, 150 meters above a rapid in the Zambezi. It is beautiful.

After the visit to Faan and Anmarie, we drive back to Camp Nkwazi. We have a braai with Gawie and Salomé, and friends Jacques and Elizma. Streicher places three chickens in the Cobb, Nina makes her mother’s famous broccoli salad and Norbert bakes bread. It is a wonderful evening in the company of South Africans who established themselves in Zambia.

Dag 41, 7 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 6

Nkwazi

‘n Rustige, ontspanne dag by Nkwazi. Dis een van die beste plekke vanwaar mens Livingstone en omgewing kan verken, met ander woorde as basis te gebruik, maar ook een van die beste plekke om te ontspan en so ‘n bietjie die administrasie op datum te kry.

Nkwazi is al aangewys as die beste kamp in Afrika. Dis netjies, skoon, gerieflik, goed beplan met uitstekende diens. Die ligging is ook absoluut fantasties. Snags pla die seekoeie se gesnork. Soggens word jy met voëlgesang wakker. Leon Oosthuizen van Namibië is die eienaar, en Gawie en Salome Botha bestuur die plek. Saam maak hulle ‘n uitstekende kombinasie.

Laat middag stap ons oor na die Bothas vir ‘n braai. Daar is ‘n rugbywedstryd om te gaan kyk. Toe alles verby is, slaak ons ‘n sug van verligting. Uitstekend Bokke!

oOo

A peaceful, relaxing day at Nkwazi. This must be of the best place to use as a base to explore Livingstone, but also one of the best places to relax and perhaps take some time to get the admin up to date.

Nkwazi has been named as the best campsite in Africa. It is neat, clean, comfortable, well planned with excellent services. The setting is exquisite. At night the hippos keep you awake with their snoring. Early morning it is the birds... Leon Oosthuizen of Namibia is the owner and Gawie and Salome Botha manage the lodge and campsite. Together they make a perfect combination.

Late afternoon we walk over to the Botha’s. There is the small matter of a rugby test to consider. At the final whistle, we are all very happy and relieved. Well done Bokke.

Dag 42, 8 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 6

Grenskruising

Vandag is dit een van daardie dae. Een van die moeilikste dae tydens ‘n Voetsporereis – ‘n grenskruising.

Aanvanklik, aan Zambië se kant, verloop alles seepglad. Tot ons die “gate pass” moet kry. Een dokument uitstaande. Die TIP. Die Temporary Import Permit. Nie ek, Francois of Streicher het dit gehad nie. Ons word ontbied na die hoof van Doeane. Ons verduidelik dat die dokument nooit aan ons gegee is nie. Hy gaan die stelsels na en bepaal dat ons wel daarvoor betaal het, en dat dit uitgereik is. Probleem is, die TIP moes na 30 dae hernu word. Ons s’n was nie.

Ons verduidelik dat dit nooit aan ons meegedeel is nie. By Immigrasie is dit vir ons gesê, daarom het ons ons visas wel hernu in Kalabo. Maar niemand het ooit iets gesê van die TIP nie.

Die man maak ‘n paar oproepe. Trap ‘n paar amptenare uit, en laat ons gaan met ‘n ernstige waarskuwing. Hy kon ons ‘n stewige boete opgelê het, maar het eerder verkies om ons storie te glo. Dit gebeur nie aldag in Afrika nie.

Ons is oor die skouspelagtige brug by Victoria Falls. Daar is waarskynlik geen meer dramatiese grenskruising in die wêreld as die een nie.

Aan Zimbabwe se kant is daar geen probleme nie. Ons het ons papierwerk reg gehad. Ons het ons negatiewe COVID toetse gehad. Dis net dat dit twee uur lank duur om ‘n baie eenvoudige prosedure te voltrek. Die sporadies kragonderbrekings het nie gehelp nie.

Laat middag ry ons die pragtige dorpie, Victoria Falls binne. Ons gaan kamp by die N1 Hotel. Aandete is by die Three Monkeys. Dis ‘n uitstekende restaurant.

oOo

Today is one of those days. One of the most difficult days on a Voetspore expedition – a border crossing.

Initially, on the Zambian side, all went well. But then we had to get our gate pass. We were one document short. The TIP. The Temporary Import Permit. Neither Francois, Streicher or I had the document. We are summoned by the chief of customs. We explain we never received such a document. He checks on the system and determines that the documents were paid for, but apparently never issued. Problem is that the TIP had to be renewed after 30 days, and it wasn’t.

We explain that this was never conveyed to us. We were informed by Immigration that it would be the case with the visas, and therefore we had ours renewed at Kalabo. Nobody said anything about the TIP.

The man makes a few phone calls. He tells his officials that they should do their job properly. He then gives us a stern warning. He could have given us a serious fine but chooses to believe our story. This does not happen often in Africa.

We drive over the spectacular bridge at Victoria Falls. There is probably no more dramatic border crossing in the world than this one.

On the Zimbabwean side, we experience no problems. Our paperwork is in order. We had our COVID tests. Everything takes two hours to complete, even though it is a simple task. The sporadic power cuts did not help.

Late afternoon we enter the beautiful town of Victoria Falls. We set up camp at the neat N1 Hotel. Dinner was at the Three Monkeys. It is an excellent restaurant.