Dag 43, 9 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 7

Victoria Falls

Ons is in die pragtige dorpie, Victoria Falls. Die son kom op oor die valle. Die rook wat donder.

In die dorp is daar geweldig baie curios. Die kunstenaars van Zimbabwe kerf van die heel mooiste uit hout en seepsteen. Dis onweerstaanbaar om nie iets te koop nie, al het jy tydens die vorige besoek reeds te veel gekoop. Die COVID pandemie het verder daartoe aanleiding gegee dat die verkopers desperaat is. Die pryse is belaglik. Mens voel eerder om dit nie te koop nie. Dis amper verkeerd.

In Zimbabwe is dit ‘n vakansiedag. Heldedag. Al die vlae hang half stok.

Ons loop in die dorp rond. Dis so anders as Livingstone. Alles is loopafstand van mekaar. Selfs die toegang tot die valle. Mens moet net versigtig wees vir die olifante. Teen die middag maak ons ‘n laaste draai by ‘n plek waar ons vir oulaas die Batoka Skeur kon sien. The LookOut is sekerlik een van die wonderlikste plekke om ‘n koffie of ‘n bier te drink. Die uitsig is werklik skouspelagtig.

Ons het die pad gevat, stoom af. Dit was ‘n uitdagende grondpad wat ons vir vier uur lank besig gehou het. Dit was reeds donker met ons aankoms by Maabwe.

Maabwe is Richard en Margot Donaldson se plek op die Karibameer. Hulle het ons hartlik ontvang. Ons sou moes wag tot dit die volgende dag lig word voor ons kan sien hoe lyk die plek. Vir ‘n begin het hulle onthaal met ‘n heerlike aandete – bream, of ’t wel tilapia, gevang net voor hulle huis in die meer, saam met chips. Absoluut heerlik.

oOo

We are in the quaint town of Victoria Falls. The sun rises over the Falls. The smoke that thunders.

This is the curio capital of Africa. The Zimbabwean artists carve the most beautiful items from wood and sandstone. One feels the urge to buy something, even though you bought plenty during previous visits. The COVID pandemic also made the sellers desperate and they sell at the most ridiculous prices.

In Zimbabwe, it is Hero’s Day. It is a public holiday. All flags hang half-mast.

We take a stroll around town. It is very different to Livingstone. Everything, even the access to the falls, is within walking distance. One should just watch out for the elephants in town. By midday, we go to a vantage point where we can have a last proper view of the falls. The LookOut is a perfect spot for a beer or a coffee, and a view of the Batoka Gorge. It is spectacular.

We leave town and drive east, downstream. It is a challenging gravel road that keeps us busy for more than four hours. It is after dark when we reach Maabwe.

Maabwe belongs to Richard and Margot Donaldson. It is located on Lake Kariba. We got a warm reception. We must wait until the morning to see what this place looks like. Our stay started with a bream or tilapia dinner. The fish was caught in the lake, right in front of their house. It was very tasty.

Dag 44, 10 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 7

Maabwe

Agt uur is ons saam met Margot en Richard op hulle boot, uit op die meer. Dis werklik pragtig. Visarende wat roep, seekoeie wat snork, ‘n krokodil of twee wat in die water gly.

Hierdie gedeelte van Kariba is nog redelik nou. Dis die inloop. Ons sien Zambië aan die oorkant. Die van ons met Zambiese SIM kaarte kry selfs nog ‘n WhatsApp en e-pos op ons fone.

Richard neem ons na ‘n baai, en die inloop van een van die riviere wat Kariba voed. Daar is ‘n aantal vissermanne wat hulle nette uitsit. Ons gaan deur ʼn gedeelte wat bekend staan as The Narrows. Voor die meer in die vyftigerjare gebou is, was daar blykbaar ‘n voetgangerbrug oor die deel van die Zambezi.

Op een van die eilande is ‘n klomp ape. Hulle kon sedert die plek ‘n eiland geword het, toe die water opgestoot het, nog nie die stuk grond verlaat nie. Dit behoort ‘n baie interessante studie te wees om te sien hoe evolusie hulle geraak het.

Laat middag probeer ons bietjie visvang. Een van Richard se werkers, Chris, probeer my leer. Ek is nie baie suksesvol nie. Hy vang wel ‘n paar. Ek verkyk my aan die ondergaande son, die seekoeie wat kom wei en die visarend wat ‘n vis kom haal uit die vlak water voor ons.

Die aand maak Streicher rump, groen rissie en uie sosaties. Dit bly ‘n wenner, saam met Nina se aartappels met roosmaryn. Dis ‘n goeie laat aand kuier saam met Richard en Margot. Boonop het Streicher sy CFA 3 eksamen uitslae gekry. Ons het iets besonders om te vier.

oOo

At eight we go onto the lake with Richard and Margot on their boat. It is beautiful. A fish eagle calling, hippos snorting and crocodile, gliding into the water.

This part of Kariba is still rather narrow. It is close to the intake. We see Zambia on the opposite side. Those of us with Zambian SIM cards even get WhatsApp and emails.

Richard takes us to a bay at one of the rivers that feed Kariba. We see fishermen, setting out their nets. We also go through a stretch known as The Narrows. Before the dam was built in the fifties there was a footbridge across the Zambezi.

On one of the islands, created by the rising waters of the lake, there is a troop of monkeys. Since then they never managed to leave the island. It will be an interesting study on evolution.

Late afternoon we go fishing for bream from the shore in front of Maabwe. One of Richard’s workers, Chris, teaches me. I am not very successful. He catches a few. I am mesmerized by the setting sun, the hippos who come to graze and the fish eagle catching a fish from the lake, right in front of me.

For supper Streicher braai rump kebabs with green pepper and onions. It remains a perfect combination, served with Nina’s potatoes with rosemary. What makes the evening even more special is that Streicher received his results for CFA3. We have a huge celebration.

Dag 45, 11 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 7

Chizarira Nasionale Park

By Richard en Margot sou ons ‘n week kon bly. Maabwe, die plek van die klippe. Die gasvryheid van die twee mense wat so graag gesels. Hulle gee ook sommer raad oor die reis vorentoe in Zimbabwe.

Ons groet en vertrek. Die pad loop tussen Tonga nedersettings deur. Dis ‘n pragtige, kenmerkende boustyl met die graanstoor wat op pale gebou word. Dis soos wat ons jare gelede in Madagaskar gesien het. Dis ‘n landelike bestaan. Pragtige hutte tussen die kremetartbome.

Die Tonga is vir baie jare deur ander gespot omdat baie van hulle net drie tone het. Daar is na hulle verwys as die boomklimmers. Hulle speel geen aktiewe rol in die politiek van Zambië of Zimbabwe nie. Hulle is bloot die mense wat langs die rivier woon. Langs die magtige Zambezi.

Net voor twaalf kom ons aan by Binga. Ons wil eintlik maar net kyk of ons SIM kaarte kan kry vir ons fone sodat ons kan kommunikeer met die mense tuis. Dit duur ‘n rukkie, en ons is ook nie so seker of dit werk nie. Die data kom maar stadig en sporadies deur.

Ons ry na Chizarira Nasionale Park. Dis op ons roete na Matusadona. In die park ry ons na die kampplek bo-op kranse by die Mucheni Gorge. Dis ‘n kampplek sonder geriewe, maar die uitsig is onverbeterlik.

Aandete is ‘n Nina gereg – chorizo, eiervrug, pepers saam met koes koes. Nogal spoggerig.

oOo

With Richard and Margot, we could stay a week. Maabwe means the place of rocks. It is a place with hospital people who enjoys a good conversation. They also give us good advice regarding the route ahead in Zimbabwe.

We say goodbye and leave. The road takes us past Tonga villages. They are beautiful, built in a unique style with granaries on poles. It reminds us of what we saw in Madagascar, many years ago. It is a pastoral existence. Beautiful amongst the massive baobabs.

The Tonga people were mocked for many years, and many of them only have three toes. There were referred to as the tree climbers. They play no active role in the politics of Zambia or Zimbabwe. They are merely the people, living along the mighty Zambezi.

Before midday, we arrive at Binga. We buy SIM cards that will enable us to communicate from Zimbabwe with the people back home. It takes a while to get it done, and I am not so sure how successful it is as the data arrives very slowly and intermittently.

We travel to the Chizarira National Park. This is on route to Matusadona. In the park, we settle at the camp on the cliffs above Mucheni Gorge. There are no facilities, but the views are spectacular.

Supper is a Nina special – chorizo, eggplant and peppers served with couscous. Rather fancy!

Dag 46, 12 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 7

Matusadona

Die oggend kry ons ontbyt en dis nie die gewone koffie en beskuit nie. Dis ‘n skouspelagtige mooi uitsig by die Mucheni Gorge in Chizarira. Dis nie ‘n uitsig wat mens moet mors nie. Nina maak plaatkoekies met spek, stroop of heuning, en kaas.

Teen nege uur vertrek ons. Dis eers terug grootpad toe, en vandaar oos oor Siabuwa na Siakobvu. Dis tussen Tonga nedersettings deur, verby van die mooiste kremetartbome.

Dis skaars 200 km se ry vir die dag, maar die pad, alhoewel onlangs “geskraap”, vat maar sy tyd. Dis laat middag met ons aankoms by Karl Wright se Rhino Camp in Matusadona op die oewer van die Karibameer.

Een van daardie beelde wat jou vir altyd sal bybly - die son wat sak oor die spieëlgladde water van die meer, die dooie boomstompe wat in die water staan, ‘n seekoei wat op die oewer wei, ‘n olifant wat kom water drink, rooibokkies wat verby hardloop.

Die aand is daar ook ander gaste om die etenstafel. Gareth John, ‘n vriend van Karl, en sy geselskap is ook hier. Gareth is ‘n sakeman van Harare. Alhoewel hy in Suid Afrika gebore is, woon hy reeds langer as 50 jaar in Zimbabwe. Gareth is ‘n ware Voetspore ondersteuner. Toe hy hoor ons gaan die Zambezi roete doen, het hy Karl geskakel en ons genooi om by Rhino Camp te kom bly.

Daar is ‘n wonderlike vyf dae vir ons in die vooruitsig.

oOo

The morning starts off with breakfast. Not just the usual coffee and rusks. The spectacular scenery at this Mucheni Gorge in Chizarira is not to be wasted. Nina prepares crumpets with bacon, syrup or honey and cheese.

We depart at nine. First, back to the main road. Then past the hamlets of Siabuwa and Siakobvu. The road winds through Tonga villages and the most beautiful baobab trees.

We have a mere 200 km to travel, but the road, apparently graded recently, takes its time. It is late afternoon when we arrive at Karl Wright’s Rhino Camp in Matusadona on the banks of Lake Kariba.

The arrival is one of those images that stays with you forever – the sun setting on the lake that is as smooth as a mirror, the dead tree trunks, protruding from the water, a hippo grazing, and elephant drinking and some impala running past.

For dinner, we have another guest as well. Gareth John is a friend of Karl. He is a businessman from Harare. Gareth was born in South Africa but has been living in Zimbabwe for more than 50 years. He is a follower of Voetspore, and when he heard we were about to do the Zambezi route, he got in touch with Karl and so we got invited to Rhino Camp.

We are looking forward to a wonderful 5 days ahead of us.

Dag 47, 13 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 7

Matusadona, Rhino Camp

Ons is op die oewer van die Karibameer. Die watervlak van die meer is redelik laag. Waar dit gewoonlik tot teenaan die lodge by Rhino Camp kom, is dit nou sowat 50 meter weg.

Rhino Camp is reeds hier sedert 2000. Dis nie ‘n luukse kamp nie, maar dit het luukse diens. Die personeel se kennis en ingesteldheid teenoor die gaste is besonders.

Karl en sy vrou Jenny moes ongelukkig Harare toe. Maar toe laat hulle ons in die bekwame hande van sy stiefpa, Peter Tetlow.

Die middag is ons saam met Peter op ‘n wildbesigtigingsrit. Sy kennis van die natuur en die gedrag van wilde diere is fenomenaal. Hy neem ons tot reg teenaan die olifante. Hy lees hulle optrede om so te bepaal of ons nader kan gaan of nie.

Ons sien ook heelwat rooibokke. Die Zimbabwiese rooibokke is bietjie valer as die wat ons ken, maar dis asof hulle horings groter is.

Daar is ook talle seekoeie asook krokodille in die water.

Maar Peter doen die regte ding – dis nie net vir sit, kyk, ‘n kiekie neem, aftik van die lysie en aan beweeg nie. Dit is om tyd te spandeer by die diere. So sien ons die een olifantjie te slurp se punt is af, een bul se stert is af, ‘n ander koei se een tand is gebreek. Nog ‘n koei het ‘n perfekte keep aan haar ivoor, en so sien ons sy is links. Dis detail wat andersins verlore sou raak.

Olifante was die motivering van die eerste Voetsporereis, 21 jaar gelede. Nog niks het verander in ons intense fassinering met die Ou Grotes nie.

oOo

We are on the shores of Lake Kariba. The water level of the lake is low. Normally it would reach Rhino Camp, but now it is more than 50 meters away.

Rhino Camp was built in 2000. It is a rustic camp with luxury service. The staff’s knowledge and attitude to guests is first class. It is an absolute pleasure to be here.

Karl and his wife Jenny, unfortunately, had to go to Harare but left us in the more than capable hands of his stepdad, Peter Tetlow.

Late afternoon we accompany Pete on a game drive. His knowledge of nature and the behaviour of wild animals is phenomenal. He takes us right up to the elephants. He reads their behaviour and determines how close we can get.

We see lots of impalas. The Zimbabwe variety is a little paler than the ones we know, but to us, it seems as though their horns are bigger.

There are numerous hippos and crocs in the water.

Peter does the right thing – it is not a matter of spotting the animals, taking a picture, tick it off the list and move on. It is more about spending time with the animals. This is how we observe that the one baby elephant is missing the tip of its trunk, another bull is without a tail and a cow has a broken tusk. One other cow has a chip on her left tusk, indicating that she is left-handed. This is the detail we would otherwise have missed

Elephants were the motivation for our first Voetspore excursion, 21 years ago. Nothing has changed in our fascination with them.

Dag 48, 14 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 7

Matusadona, Rhino Camp

Vandag is die dag vir visvang. Nie visvang vir die sports nie – visvang vir die pot.

Ons is uit saam met Funnyboy, een van Rhino Camp se bekwame gidse. Eers neem hy ons met die boot, rondom die eiland waarop Rhino Camp geleë is, om die son te sien opkom oor die meer. Soos ‘n goue bal verskyn dit in die wasigheid. Die dooie mopanie bome wat uit die water steek gee aan dit ‘n onwerklike gevoel. Die meer is ook spieëlglad.

Ons gesels met Funnyboy. Hy vertel vir ons van die slag toe ‘n krokodil sy vrou aangeval het terwyl sy visvang. Genadiglik het sy dit oorleef. Hy vertel ook van die watergod, NyamiNyami. Die een wat vergelding soek vir die dam wat gebou is in die vallei van die Tonga.

Na ‘n halfuur in verwondering ry ons terug om die eiland. Ons praat van Rhino Camp as ‘n eiland, en dit is net omdat die watervlak laag is dat mens tans die kamp met ‘n voertuig kan bereik. Miljoene kiloliter water word tans by die sluise uitgelaat om krag op te wek. Aanvanklik was daar net turbines aan die Zimbabwe se kant, maar die Sjinese het vir Zambië ook turbines ingesit. Nou is veel meer water nodig.

Ons vaar met die bootjie na ‘n baai om vis te vang. Langs die pad, die gewone: seekoeie, krokodille, oorvloedige voëllewe.

In die baai meer ons vas en begin tilapia vang. “It is like taking candy from kids” Die een vissie na die ander. Elke derde een is groot genoeg vir die pan. Die res word terug gegooi. Dis ‘n genotvolle oggend.

Die middag gaan ons weer op ‘n wildbesigtigingsrit saam met Peter. Ons sien niks uitsonderlik nie, net talle rooibokke. Maar skielik stop Peter en wys na ‘n punt, bo in die boom. Daar dit ‘n reuse ooruil. ‘n Pragtige voël. Onder die boom, twee likkewane wat paar. Ons sit sekerlik ‘n halfuur en kyk.

Later is ons verder deur Matusadona, saam met Peter op die Land Rovertjie wat al meer as een miljoen kilometer gery het. Dit bly ‘n voorreg om saam met die man, gebore in Noord Rhodesië, en kenner van die Afrika bos, te wees.

oOo

Today is a day for fishing – not just for the love of it, but for the pot.

Our guide is Funnyboy. He is one of Rhino Camp’s very capable staff. At first, he takes us on a boat to see the sunrise. To do so, we go round this island on which Rhino Camp is situated. The sun rises like a golden ball in the mist. The dead Mopani trees, protruding from the lake, give it an eerie feeling. The lake’s surface is like a mirror.

Funnyboy tells us of the incident when his wife was attacked by a crocodile whilst fishing. Luckily, she survived. He also tells us of the river god, NyamiNiyami, and its wrath about the people, building the dam and flooding the land on which the Tonga tribe lived.

After an hour of absolute amazement, we sail around the island. Rhino Camp is situated on an island, but with the water level currently very low, one can reach the camp by vehicle. Millions of kilolitres of water are currently rushed through the turbines of the hydro-electrical plant of Kariba. Initially, there were only turbines on the Zimbabwe side, but the Chinese installed more on the Zambian side as well. More water is now needed.

We sail to a bay to go fishing. Along the way, the usual – hippos, crocs, and abundance of birdlife.

We moor on the bank and start fishing. “It is like taking candy from kids”. One bream after the other. Every third one is big enough for the pan. The rest we release back into the dam. It is a most enjoyable morning.

Late afternoon we once more go game viewing with Peter. We do not see anything exceptional. Only hundreds of impalas. But suddenly Peter stops and points to a spot, high up in a tree. There, on a branch, is a giant eagle owl. It is a beautiful bird. Under the tree, we see two rock monitors, mating. We watch the spectacle for half an hour.

We continue our journey through Matusadona with Peter in the Land Rover. The game viewer has done more than a million km. It is a privilege to enjoy the African bush with this knowledgeable guide who hails from Northern Rhodesia.

Dag 49, 15 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 7

Matusadona, Rhino Camp

Dis ‘n baie vroeë oggend. Ons is vyf uur op. Vandag wil ons na die oostelike deel van die park. Dis sowat 60 kilometer heen en weer. Mens sou voor die dag te warm is, weer wil terug wees. Die paadjies is onlangs deur African Park opgegradeer, maar dit ry steeds maar stadig.

Ons sien die son opkom deur die mopanie woud soos ons met die tweespoor paadjie oos ry. Ons ry weer verby die boom van die reuse ooruil. Hy is steeds daar.

Ons sien heelwat rooibokke, ‘n paar koedoes, ‘n grysbok en selfs ‘n pragtige kringgat waterbok. Ook olifante wat baai in die water van die meer. Maar die buffels en katte van Matusadona ontwyk ons steeds. Hoogtepunt is toe Nina ‘n luislang langs die pad sien. Ons spring uit en kyk na die pragtige slang. Hy seil weg en gaan kruip weg in ‘n hol boomstomp.

Teen een uur is ons terug by die kamp vir nog ‘n smaaklike maaltyd. Mens weet nie waar die personeel die vars slaai vandaan kry nie, want in die Park word hulle nie toegelaat om tuin te maak nie. Alles moet weekliks per boot vanaf Kariba inkom.

Die middag gaan ons weer saam met Funnyboy uit. Die keer, nie op die boot om vis te vang nie, maar net om te kyk. Ons sien ‘n reuse reier, geelbek ooievaars, groen rug reiers, kormorante, slangnek voëls en die mees spesiale - ‘n reuse visvanger. Dis ‘n besonderse voël.

Toe die son sak, sien ons een van die heel mooiste tonele nog op ons reis. Nina , Streicher en Francois sê al drie – dis die mooiste wat hulle nog gesien het. Maar ek het dit al voorheen gehoor.

oOo

A very early morning. We get up at five. We want to explore the eastern side of the park. It is approximately 60 km to cover, there and back. We want to be back before the heat of the day. The roads were recently upgraded by African Parks, but it still takes some time to cover the distance.

We see the sunrise over the Mopani forest as we drive down the Jeep track. We pass the tree of the giant eagle owl. He is still perched on his branch.

We once more see hundreds of impalas, a few kudus, a grysbok and a beautiful waterbuck. Also, elephants, bathing in the shallow water of the lake. But Matusadona’s buffalo and cats elude us. The highlight of the morning is when Nina spots a python. We jump out of the vehicles and observe this beautiful snake. He sails away and settles in a hollow tree trunk.

At lunch, we are back in camp for yet another scrumptious meal. I don’t know how they manage to serve fresh salads. It is not allowed to grow veggies in the park. Everything needs to be brought in from Kariba.

In the afternoon we are once more on the boat with Funnyboy. This time, not for fishing, but for game viewing. We see a Goliath heron, yellow-billed stork, greenback herons, cormorants, darters, and most special of them all, the giant kingfisher. It is a beautiful bird.

As the sun sets, we see one of the most beautiful scenes thus far on our journey. Nina, Streicher and Francois claim it is the most beautiful that they have ever seen. But I’ve heard this before...

Dag 50, 16 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 7

Matusadona, Rhino Camp

Dit was ‘n rustige dag by Rhino Camp. Ons het gehoop om vandag reeds ‘n veerboot te kry om die voertuie na Kariba te neem. COVID, die ekonomie, die politiek in Zimbabwe, dit alles het daartoe gelei dat daar veel minder verkeer op die meer is.

Om koste te bespaar wil ons van ‘n veerboot gebruik maak wat voorrade inbring na ‘n bestemming naby ons, en dan “leeg” terug vaar. Die veerboot kry ons eers môre.

Ons is nou reeds ‘n paar dae hier. Dis altyd die risiko dat jy iewers jou verkyker neergesit het, ‘n selfoon kabel gelos het, so ook jou hoed, jou masker. Ons sorg dat alles reg is en gepak is vir die volgende dag se vertrek.

Laat middag hoor ek takke kraak. Daar is ‘n olifant in die kamp. Hulle ken hom reeds. Hy is gedoop Maroela. Stefan staan hom nog en afneem, toe sien hy Nina kom doodluiters aangestap, onbewus van wat om haar aangaan. Gelukkig sien Stefan dit. Hy skreeu op Nina. Sy is reeds binne vyf meter van die reuse dier. Nina verstar. Peter is gelukkig ook naby en hy praat met Nina. Vertel haar om stadig terug te loop, en agter om een van die chalets te kom tot waar ons is. Sy het haar dood geskrik.

Met sononder sit ons by die vuur en drink ‘n drankie. Rhino Camp is ‘n besonderse plek. Dis ‘n plek wat mens weer sal sien.

Aandete is soos elke aand – heerlik, geurig en vars. Die keer gestoofde beesvleis, rys, groen bone, wortels en aartappels, saam met ‘n Griekse slaai. Voorgereg was eier mayo, en vir nagereg, malva poeding.

Toe ons gaan inkruip kom daar ‘n sterk wind op. Dit voorspel niks goed vir môre se veerboot vaart oor die meer nie.

oOo

It was a quiet day at Rhino Camp. We hoped to get a ferry to take us to Kariba. COVID, the economy and the political dispensation of Zimbabwe all contribute to much less traffic on Kariba than usual.

To save expenses we are looking for a ferry that brings in supplies to a destination near us so that we can charter the empty vessel back. Such a ferry only arrives tomorrow.

We have been here for a few days. The risk is that you may have placed items such as your binoculars, cell phone charger cable, hat, or mask somewhere. Now we see to it that we have all our stuff for an early departure.

Late afternoon I hear branches breaking. There is an elephant in camp. They know him at Rhino Camp. His name is Marula. While Stefan is filming the elephant, he sees Nina walking up, oblivious of what is happening around her. He shouts at her. By then she is less than five metres from the beast. She freezes. Luckily Peter is nearby to direct her. He tells her to retreat slowly and walk around one of the chalets to where we are. Nina had a hell of a fright.

At sundown we sit around the campfire, enjoying a drink. Rhino Camp is a very special place. A place we shall return to.

Dinner is like every evening – tasty, flavoursome, and fresh. This time beef stew, rice, green beans, carrots, and potatoes, served with a Greek salad. Starters were egg mayo, and for dessert, malva pudding.

When we go to bed a strong breeze is blowing. It doesn’t bid well for tomorrow’s journey.