Dag 60, 26 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 9

Chewore

Die vierde dag by Mana Pools. Ons verken die Mana Drive. Wild is volop, soos altyd. Vandag maak ek ‘n draai by die kantoor om ons permitte te kry. Probleem is, daar is ‘n olifant in die pad. Die staan in die deur by Ontvangs. Ek moet wag tot hy klaar al die peule opgetel het, voor ons die papiere kon kry en vertrek.

Ons ry stroomaf. Dis die kort pad Chewore toe. Maar dis die lang pad. Die sowat 60 km neem veel langer as wat die 150 km sou wees rondom die grense van Mana Pool National Park.

Langs die pad sien ons bietjie wild. Dis in die jag gebied. Natuurlik veel meer skrikkerig.

Later die middag kom ons by Chewore aan. Ons het vooraf met hulle gereël dat ons ses, met drie Cruisers daar sou kamp. Hulle het vir ons ‘n kwotasie van $ 220 per aand gestuur. Dis reeds heelwat, maar hierdie is darem unieke wêreld. (Ons het ook reeds $ 110 bewaringsfooi aan Zim Parke betaal.) Dis dalk die moeite werd. Verder is dit bietjie stowwerig. By Nkwazi in Zambië word die oorvloedige water gebruik om ‘n grasperk by die kampplek uit te lê. Nie hier nie. Maar die storte en toilette is skoon en netjies.

Toe kom die verassing – ons is meer as vyf mense (vier plus ‘n helper). Daarom moet ons twee kampplekke vat. Dis die reël. By Chewore is daar baie reëls – by die ingang, by Ontvangs, teen die toilet muur, by die stort ... mens wonder hoe hulle gewone kliënte hulle gedra dat hulle aan al die reëls onderwerp moet word. Nie iets waaraan ons gewoond is nie. Maar die reël van vier plus ‘n helper, die kan hulle nie buig nie, al gebruik ons net een kampplek. Nou moet ons $ 440 per nag betaal, en die boot die volgende dag, vir ‘n halfdag, $ 300 (brandstof ingesluit). Totaal vir twee dae: $ 1290 = R 21 000.

Ons voel ingedoen. Ons is hierheen gelok met die idee dat dit duur sal wees, maar nie so duur nie. En dalk vang ons nie eers ‘n vis nie! Vreemd hoe verskillend mense tydens COVID optree – sommiges gaan uit hulle pad om kliënte te lok. Ander, soos Cherowe, wil die toeriste wat wel opdaag melk vir elke sent. Die plek sien ons nie weer gou nie.

Ons besluit – bly vir een aand, en beweeg aan. Ons het uitstekende visvang geleenthede gehad, stroomop.

Die aand maak Francois vir ons stokvis in ‘n kevlar sakkie. Dit word bedruip met ‘n botter sous en roosmaryn. Nina bak viskoekies. Dit word bedien met rys en ‘n slaai. Dis ‘n wonderlike aandete.

oOo

It is our fourth day at Mana Pools. We explore the Mana Drive. Game, as usual, is in abundance. I go to Reception to get our exit permits. But there is a problem. There is an elephant in the doorway! I cannot enter. He first must finish picking up pods of the ground before I can go in to get the paperwork done.

We go downstream and take the shortcut to Chewore. But it is a long road. The 60 km takes much longer than the round trip of 150 around the border of Mana Pool National Parks.

We see some game, but this used to be a hunting area. The game is much more skittish.

Late afternoon we arrive at Chewore. We have sent them an email beforehand, stating that we are six people in three Cruisers. They replied with a quote of $ 220 for camping per night. This is a little more than we normally have in our budget, but it is a special place. (we already paid an additional $ 110 conservation fee to Zim Parks) It should be worth the money. But the campsite disappoints, as it is a dust bowl. Why cannot they, like at Nkwazi in Zambia, have a lawn with an abundance of water from the Zambezi? But the showers and toilets are clean and well maintained.

But then, the surprise – we are more than five people (four plus a helper). We must take two campsites. These are the rules. At Chewore they have many rules – at the entrance, at Reception, in the toilet, in the shower... it makes one think how their usual clients behave to have all the rules set out so clearly. It is just not something we are used to. What is clear, the rule of not more than four plus a helper can not be changed. We now must pay $ 440 per night, and the boat for the next day, half-day $ 300 (fuel included.). Total for the two days: $ 1 290 = R 21 000

We feel cheated. They lured us to this place knowing that it would be expensive. But not that expensive. And then there is no guarantee of catching anything. It is strange how different people in the hospitality industry react during COVID. Some do everything to get more happy clients. Others, like Cherowe, try and milk tourists for every cent. This place won’t see us again soon.

We decide – stay for a night and move on. We had excellent angling higher upstream. There is no guarantee that it will be repeated.

For supper, Francois bakes hake in a kevlar bag on the coals. It gets a butter and rosemary dressing. Nina bakes fish cakes. This is served with rice and a salad. It is an excellent dinner.

Dag 61, 27 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 9

Theropod spoor

Ons verlaat Chewore teen agt uur. Nou moet ons ‘n wye draai ry om weer by die Zambezi uit te kom. Ons kan nie gewoon stroomaf tot in Mosambiek nie. Daar is nie juis paaie nie, en ook nie grensposte nie. Die wat wel daar is, is toe weens COVID 19. Ons moet via Harare deur die grens by Nyampanda, en dis ‘n paar dae se reis.

Ons neem ook nie die vinnigste roete, terug na die A1 teerpad wat Harare met Zambië verbind nie. Ons neem ‘n tweespoor, deur die Chewore jaggebied. Ons het gehoor van ‘n gefossileerde dinosourus spoor, iewers in die bos. Om daar uit te kom, maak ons staat op Tracks4Africa.

Dis ‘n wonderlike roete om te ry. In ‘n stadium 4x4. Later donkierat. Ons het al amper verleer hoe om dit te doen! Maar die Cruisers gedra hulle goed. Ons sukkel nie.

Teen middagete kom ons aan by die plek wat op GPS gemerk is as die Theropod Footprint. Daar is geen ander aanduiding nie. Ons moet soek op die sedimentêre rots vir die voetafdruk. Ons meen ons het dit gevind. Nie een van ons is juis paleontoloë nie, maar dit lyk tog soos ‘n spoor van ‘n gedierte uit die middel Jurassic periode.

Ons neem die pad verder, rigting Karoi. Dis ‘n lekker paadjie om te ry, maar dit hou jou besig. Dis selde dat jy in derde rat kom.

Teen vier uur is ons by Karoi. Vandaar neem ons die A1, rigting Harare. Toe dit donker word is ons by Chinhoyi. By die grotte, net buite die dorp se kampplek, maak ons kamp. Dit was ‘n lang dag agter die stuur.

oOo

We leave Chewore at eight. We now must take a long detour to meet up with the Zambezi again. It is not possible just to go downstream. There are practically no roads, and the ones that do exist, have no active border crossings. These are closed because of COVID 19. We now must go the Nyampanda crossing via Harare, it takes a few days of travelling.

We do not take the quickest route, back to the A1 that connects Harare with Zambia. We take the Jeep track through the Chewore hunting area. We heard about a dinosaur footprint, and to get there, we depend on the GPS and Tracks4Africa

It is an excellent route. It becomes a 4x4 route. Later, low range. It has been a while since we did this. But the Cruisers perform very well, and we don’t have any hassles.

At lunch, we arrive at the spot that is marked on the GPS as the Theropod Footprint. There is no other signage. We need to examine the sedimentary rock for clues. We believe we found it. We are not palaeontologists, but the holes in the rock look like the footprint of an animal, dating back to the middle Jurassic period.

We continue with the track, direction Karoi. We enjoy the drive, but it is a road that keeps you busy. We seldom get to third gear.

By four o’clock we reach Karoi where we take the A1, direction Harare. When darkness falls, we reach Chinhoyi where we set up camp at the campsite of the caves, just outside town. It was a long day behind the wheel.

Dag 62, 28 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 9

Harare

Dit was maar ‘n lawaaierige nag langs die A1 by die Chinhoyi kampplek. Ons vertrek net voor agt. In die dorp, met goeie selfoon sein, doen ek my weeklikse gesprek met Derrich Gardner.

Net voor ek met Derrich praat kom groet ‘n man. Hy stel homself voor as Renier van Rensburg. Hy is ‘n Afrikaner wat gebore en groot geword het in Zimbabwe. Hy boer tans hier. Hy vra hoe dit gaan, of ons nog lekker toer en waar ons vannag oorslaap. Hy stel voor ons skakel Deon Theron van die Dema Villa Gastehuis.

Ons reis verder na die Zimbabwe hoofstad. Daar is baie vragmotors op die roete.

By Harare aangekom, en wat ‘n aangename verassing. Deon en sy vrou Martha ontvang ons. Ons kuier lekker saam met hulle. Ons gaan maak ook ‘n draai by die Food Lovers en Pick n Pay om voorrade aan te vul. Zimbabwe is glad nie soos so baie mense voorgee nie. Dis inteendeel ‘n wonderlike plek met fantastiese mense.

oOo

It was a noisy night next to the A1 at the campsite just outside Chinhoyi. We leave just before eight. In town, where the cell phone signal is good, I do my weekly interview with Derrich Gardner.

Just before I start the interview, a man walks up to me and introduces himself as Renier van Rensburg - an Afrikaner who was born and bred in Zimbabwe. He farms locally. He enquires about our well-being, and if the tour is going according to plan, and suggests that in Harare we stay over at the Dema Villa guest house of Deon Theron.

We drive south to the Zimbabwe capital. We encounter many trucks on route.

Arriving in Harare is a pleasant surprise. Deon and his wife Martha welcome us. We visit the Food Lovers Market and Pick n Pay to replenish supplies. Zimbabwe is not the country as implied by many. It is a wonderful place with friendly, hospitable people.

Dag 63, 29 Augustus

Voetspore Zambezi

Julie, Augustus, September 2021

Dagboek Week 9

Harare

Vandag is ‘n rustige dag by die Dema Villa gastehuis. Dis inpak, regmaak en gereed maak vir die laaste skof, na Mosambiek.

Teen 10 uur kom maak Chris Hougaard ‘n draai. Hy het aangebied om ons te vergesel na Mosambiek. Hy het ‘n aantal kapentabote op Cahora Bassa. Nou sal hy ons help om deur die grens te kom. Met COVID regulasies kan dit steeds ‘n probleem wees.

Die res van die dag gesels die manne met vriende en familie by die huis met WhatsApp oproepe. Dema Villa se Wi-Fi is lekker vinnig.

Die aand nooi Deon en Martha ons vir aandete. Ons sal die ete nie gou vergeet nie. Aan die een kant is dit uniek – Deon se patent. Elkeen maak kos in sy eie klein swart potjie. Dis amper soos ‘n Mongolian Barbeque, maar op eg Afrika manier. Dan vertel Deon en Martha vir ons die hel waardeur hulle is soos hulle die een plaas na die ander verloor het, en Deon boonop twee keer in die tronk beland het. Hulle het alles verloor en moes van voor begin. Dis hoe die gastehuis tot stand gekom het.

Deon en Martha is twee besonderse mense met geweldige deursettingsvermoë en liefde vir hulle land en hulle mense. Ten spyte van geweldige beproewinge is hulle steeds positief. Hulle verhaal is ‘n aangrypende verhaal. Dit is ‘n voorreg om hulle te leer ken.

oOo

It is a quiet day at Dema Villa Guest House as we prepare for the last leg of our journey in Mozambique.

At ten Chris Hougaard pays us a visit. He offers to accompany us across the border to Mozambique. He operates a kapenta business on Cahora Bassa. With COVID regulations in place, border crossings are still complicated. Chris offers to facilitate ours.

The rest of the day is spent, talking to friends and family on WhatsApp calls. Dema Villa’s Wi-Fi is strong and fast.

Deon and Martha invite us for supper. It is a meal we will not forget soon. First, it is the unique way the meal is prepared and served. Each person prepares his own potjie. It is like a Mongolian Barbeque but done the African way in a small cast iron pot. Then Deon and Martha share with us the hell they went through as one farm after the other was taken from them. Deon was even imprisoned twice. They lost everything and had to start anew. That is how the guest house came about.

Both Deon and Martha are exceptional people with perseverance and a love for their country and its people. Despite all the trials and tribulations, they remain positive. Their story is a gripping one, and we feel privileged to have met them.